Today there was a gentle breeze in our favour and all sails were set. Prayers were read in the saloon but I was not present; there was no music, there being no band on board except a few fiddlers, not first rate artists. The fog had now cleared away and it was very warm.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Friday, May 31, 2013
Wednesday, May 29, 2013
Saturday 9th April 1853
The hopes formed yesterday regarding our voyage were this day doomed to disappointment, as at about half past 11 o’clock this forenoon the main shaft to which the paddle wheels are connected broke when we were nearly opposite Jiddah lat 21 50 north long 37 39 east. The vessel’s progress was stopped but after a little delay some arrangements were made by which we resumed progress with one paddle wheel, at a slower rate. The fog was clearing off and the temperature becoming warmer. In the evening in looking at the stars the north pole star was observed a great deal lower in the heavens than we are accustomed to see it in England. The breeze continued gentle and rather favourable to our progress.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Monday, May 27, 2013
Friday 8th April 1853
Nothing of importance occurred this day worthy of recording: the weather continued foggy and warm, making a lightening of clothing very agreeable. The sun’s disc was occasionally visible in the white and well defined form caused by fog. The vessel was making good way and we were in good hopes of a favourable voyage coming to a speedy termination. The phosphorescence of the seas was very distinct in the evening.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Saturday, May 25, 2013
Thursday 7th April 1853
This morning the rattle of the great chain by which the anchor was raised awoke me about 4 or 5 o’clock, announcing that we were now about to start our voyage down the Gulf of Suez. The day turned out to be very foggy and prevented us from getting any view of the coast.It however, moderated very considerably the heat of the sun. In the afternoon we passed a high ridge on our left dimly seen through the fog called the heights of Zeittee, on the coast of the peninsula of Sinai. An old negro sat at the bow of the vessel with a coarse mantle thrown over his back as a tent and steadily looking before him. This was our pilot upon whose skill and care our safety depended in our passage through the dangers of the coral reefs and islands with rocky shores of the Gulf of Suez, the Straits of Jubal and northern portion of the Red Sea. These pilots possess remarkable acuteness of vision and great practical experience of the navigation of these dangerous waters, which they have acquired in navigating their small ships... Their services are mostly required at the two extremities of the Red Sea; for a great part of our voyage our pilot’s attendance was not necessary, but he remained at his post all this day, from, I presume, the time of starting in the early part of the morning, during the whole of the next night till the afternoon of the next day. The presence of the fog, which is, I was informed very unusual in the Red Sea, made his services of peculiar importance.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Thursday, May 23, 2013
Wednesday 6th April 1853
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| "Suez" c.1850s Image copyright of P&O Heritage |
With a friend I visited the town and its Bazaar. Miserable enough it was: the description I have already given of the shops of Cairo applies also to this, only that the shops were smaller, poorer, dirtier. In a butchers shop we observed some carcases of a variety of sheep occurring here having broad fleshy tails. In another I observed a workman in metal blowing his fire with a pair of bellows of very simple construction, consisting of a bag of skin having a fixed pipe for blowing the air through, the mouth of the bag being supplied with two flat pieces of wood one on each side and fitting to each other; these were held in the operator’s hands, opened a little when raising the bag to fill it with air and pressed close together when the bag was pressed down to expel the air for the blast. In one place we observed two people, one or both women, turning round a circular flat stone working on another by an axle and grinding in that way between the two stones some seeds or beans: the upper stone was hollowed out in the centre into a funnel and hole, I presume for the purpose of introducing the seeds which were to be ground between the two. We passed baker’s shops, provision shops, dealers in fruit, in trinkets in cotton & muslin, besides others which it would be difficult to designate correctly...
...The heat was great in Suez, the temperature being higher than any we have previously experienced. On this account it was necessary to avoid exposure to the sun and to take precautions against sun-stroke. Here many of the passengers procured pieces of muslin to wrap round their hats, turban fashion. Those who have had experience of tropical countries say that the sun’s action takes effect not on the top of the head but round the forehead and temples; and surround the head in that place with a thick body of muslin which prevents the sun’s rays from penetrating and affecting the brain. But the best of all coverings for the head is said to be what is called the Sola topee...
...The population of Suez was less mixed with Europeans, or even less mixed in general than that of Cairo.There was a considerable proportion of negroes, and many of the waiters at the Hotel were of that class. Many of these I believe come up the Red Sea from the east coast of Africa in their own vessels, as traders. Amongst all the differences of dress and manners, amidst all the poverty & dirt, ignorance and degradation and amongst people of so many varieties of colour and feature, black ,olive or yellow, with the prominent features of the Circassian race, or the flat nose and thick lips of the negro;whether Musselman or pagan, or it may be Jew or Christian; it was pleasant sometimes to see characteristics of a common humanity, things that speak at once to the heart of all, without the aid of language and independent of any bond of union, either of race or country or creed; the laugh ever ready to answer the joke, the tenderness towards infancy, the simple caress of childhood, the ambition to emulate the eagerness for gain: things like these stood out in relief from amongst all the rest, and reminded me, that, in spite of all differences, I stood and walked, and talked amongst beings with whom I could not help acknowledging because feeling the sympathy of a common brotherhood.
But we were now about to leave Egypt so famous in history, holding a rank so exalted in ancient and so degraded in modern times, some of us perhaps with recollections only of its mud and dirt, its ignorance and degradation, others it may be hoped, with a mixture of some more agreeable feelings. The small steamer appointed to convey us aboard the Bentinck at 4 o’clock was not ready for the purpose till about 6 o’clock in the evening. Our luggage had been brought forward by the camels and deposited on the wharf, as well as other goods by the Ripon... and now the luggage and passengers were placed or placed themselves on board the small steamer and proceeded to the Bentinck, on our arrival at which daylight had departed. With a little trouble and inconvenience however we managed to get safely on board and secure our berths. Before the arrangements were all settled we hung about the saloon, which was in some respects different from that of the Ripon, the most striking feature of novelty being the punkah suspended over the long table. This consisted of a long wooden rod or spar suspended by strings from the ceiling of the saloon at a distance of about 18 inches, running longitudinally over the middle of the table, from which hung some rather stiff material, apparently several folds of canvas covered with cotton cloth: this apparatus was suspended over the whole length of the table in the saloon, but divided into three parts. Cords were attached to the wooden rods and proceeded from each pair of punkahs, that is the punkah over the two tables in the same part of the saloon, to one side, where they passed over a pulley, and were drawn by a person placed there when wanted, so as to cause the punkahs to wave over the table constituting in fact a large fan. Subsequently I found this very pleasant: it was generally used at meals.
The ship was kept in a state of great turmoil and confusion, but after securing a berth, having had little sleep for several days, I went to bed and soon fell asleep.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Tuesday, May 21, 2013
Tuesday 5th April 1853
Immediately proceeding on deck I saw the lights in the distance, and very speedily, the boat was laid alongside of the pier or wharf, close to the stairs which lie alongside the stone wall. The place was lighted by torches, consisting of little chauffers fixed to the top of poles, and filled with burning wood. Without delay we left the boat and getting into an omnibus drove off to Cairo, a distance of one or two miles; there passing through the gate of the city were soon safely deposited in Shepheards hotel at about 4 o’clock in the morning.
There being some difficulty in getting a bed I contented myself with taking a tepid bath instead, and a cup of tea, and before 6 o’clock, when daylight had come, was ready to go out. I found that the hotel was situated in the outer part of the town, and before it was an avenue of fine trees leading out to the gardens and the country....
...At 9 o’clock we breakfasted and at that hour four of the desert vans started with our first lot of passengers The vans are plain but strongly built carriages on two wheels, carrying six inside,the door being at the back and the seats along the sides. There were no seats for outside passengers, but one in front for the coachman, who drives four horses or two horses and two mules. As our party was the fifth in order we belonged to the second lot of vans which was not to start till one o’clock. Having a mind then to see as much as we could, another passenger and I, with two ladies set off in a barouche to visit the Pacha’s gardens at Shoubra about 4 or 5 miles distant... As we proceeded we passed fields of corn and also sugar cane and other vegetables, and we also had a view of the pyramids in the distance. Near our journey’s end we found that we were very close to the river, which we had lost sight of since we left Boulaq. We now entered the gardens which we found very beautifully laid out abounding in a great variety of trees, shrubs and flowers many of the trees were very graceful in their forms...
...Greatly pleased with our visit to the garden at Schouba we returned to Cairo and as it was soon approaching the time of our own departure the ladies of our party remained in the hotel making preparations while my fellow passenger and I went out to visit the bazaars for the purpose of making purchases. These Bazaars are simply what we should call the best streets of shops; these were considerably better than any I had seen previously: time did not permit us to visit the Turkish Bazaar but we passed through a considerable line of streets and saw a number of pretty good shop are so numerous that there is a part called ;the French Bazaar where we made some purchases one of these shops was very handsome and quite in the European style , but it would appear that the shopkeepers take it easy as at a druggists shop at which I called the master had gone to his dinner , and at a booksellers he had gone in the same errand and had locked his door...
...Amongst the customs of the people one attracted my notice, namely, the manner of carrying children. The mode is to set the child astride on one shoulder with its face looking towards the head of the bearer, which the little creature clasps with its hands or leans its head upon...
...Very few females comparatively were seen on the streets and these generally covered by their veils,-thus the hood of the dress is brought down so as to be stretched across the forehead just above the eyes, and another portion of the robe is stretched across the face a little below them, a perpendicular strap in the middle between the two eyes connecting the upper and lower portions, leaving two triangular spaces to see through... Some women we saw unveiled, and some girls in full veil, apparently so young that their prudery appeared rather ridiculous.
I took notice of the general appearance of the people, and was rather surprised to see the almost universal look of intelligence characterising them; it appeared to me to be far more general than in our English population of the working and labouring classes, I do not recollect of having seen a single individual whom I would characterise as stupid, loutish or boorish, or to whom I could apply any stronger term than dull.Possibly the fact that they were accustomed to see such a variety of people of all kinds might partly account for this, as I observed that the children on the streets took no notice of us, sometimes did not lift their eyes to look at us. The observation could not but suggest reflection in my mind respecting the comparative intellectual development of the Egyptians and our own people: from it alone we might draw conclusions the very reverse of the truth: but the fact is very suggestive, and very many things are to be taken into account in drawing comparisons. Instead of coming to conclusions it would perhaps be better to suggest questions, as for instance, how much is due to political institutions? How much to religious opinion, faith or superstition? And again how far are these dependant on the character and intelligence of the people? Or how far our influences from without?...
...The hotel at Cairo was much superior to that at Alexandria, though deficient in our European ideas of comfort, the apartments being large but bare looking in many cases. We now left it for our journey across the desert. Our party consisting of six and the baby with carpet bags, shawls, plaids. It made a very tight fit into the van which started with us at 1 o'clock... Away we drove passing for a short time through cultivated country, but very soon reached the desert. The sky was clear and there was a gentle breeze which moderated the heat... After driving on at a rapid pace for about five miles we stopped to change horses at a station at which the horses were standing ready arranged along a rope lying on the ground to which each horse was attached by means of a short rope fastened round its fetlock. The ostlers who were Arabs, generally with little other clothing than a kind of shirt quickly removed the horses from the vans and yoked the fresh ones, and off we went again immediately... The whole journey from Cairo to Suez extends to about 84 miles and is divided into four principal divisions, each of these being again divided into 4 stages, so that there are 16 stages in all. At the end of each 4 stages is a station house at which the passengers come out for rest and refreshment, the table being ready spread for that purpose with meat, fowls, eggs, bread etc and in the evening tea and coffee also may be had.Wines and malt liquors can also be procured by paying for them, some of them however being rather costly- ale for instance, or porter 2/- per bottle. Fowls were a prominent feature in these repasts, but their flesh was very dry and hard.In other respects the provender was in some things pretty good, in others indifferent but on the whole not amiss in the circumstances.
We arrived at the first of the stations at about 3o'clock... we reached the second or central station shortly after sunset when it was beginning to get dark, between 7 and 8 o’clock where we stopped about an hour and a half...
...The desert is a great plain, but by no means an unbroken level; sometimes we meet with pretty extensive portions with perfectly level surface, but much more generally this undulated, and sometimes there are ridges of low hills; the plains rise towards the centre and declines again towards Suez...
The journey was far from comfortable, the air becoming cool as night advanced, and the window shutters being very troublesome to adjust properly, the means of fastening them not being very perfect and some of the occupants of our van suffering considerably from the discomfort. However in due time we reached the third station and though our progress was retarded considerably by frequent stoppages from the vans losing their way, at length, when the first dawn was beginning to appear, we drew up at the hotel at Suez.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Sunday, May 19, 2013
Monday 4th April 1853
This morning about 5 o’clock the welcome daylight began to make its appearance. I had passed an uncomfortable night attempting to sleep without success, suffered some degree of annoyance from the attacks of certain little creatures which prey on human blood. However fortunately for me I do not suffer much from these creatures.The ladies complained grievously both of these and of the mosquitoes, and the poor baby gave very visible evidence of their attacks on its face: fortunately however for the little creature the bites did not inflame or swell. I went on deck, found it chilly, but gladly waited the rising of the sun: the water of the canal was low and during the night we had exchanged the steam tug for 5 or 6 horses, which carried us along at the rate of about 4 miles an hour. The chiefs of the boat appeared to be Frenchmen the subordinates were natives; two or three of these sat on the bow of the boat on the look out, and all the night added to the dismalness of the entertainment by a continual shouting addressed to the drivers of the horses, the conductors of the other vessels on the canal, or the steersman of our own boat. Two of these men were deficient in the last two joints of the forefinger of the right hand, an intentional amputation to disqualify them from being taken as soldiers. We subsequently observed that many of the boys in Egypt had lost and eye, in many cases I was told this also was done intentionally with the same object.
The rising sun brought us light and more slowly heat, and revealed what was to be observed on the banks of the canal. From the flatness of the country the view was very limited; frequently the banks concealed everything else from our view, occasionally however we caught glimpses of the corn fields. Every now and then we passed natives walking along the banks apparently on their way to their labours. Not very long after day had commenced we passed some objects on the banks which attracted my attention, and the nature of which I did not at once make out. They appeared to be erections composed of dried mud, of somewhat circular form and flat on the top; it was observed that there were generally one or two small openings in each of them, and then the fact dawned upon me that they were dwelling places for the inhabitants. As we proceeded and day advanced we passed more of these, and had evidence of what they were, by observing men, women and children, as well as dogs and cattle loitering about them or going in and out of them...
...About midday we arrived at a place in which the canal passed down an avenue of graceful trees for some distance, at the termination of which was a lock, which we passed through and found ourselves on the Nile. A number of boats of various sizes were lying there alongside of one of the largest of which ours was brought, and into which the passengers with their carpet bags were immediately transferred. The remainder of the luggage had, I believe, been carried by camels to the canal where we started from and conveyed to the Nile in another boat; it was all transferred to the Nile boat here and deposited in the hold or upon desk. This vessel was a steamer of very considerably larger size than that we had left, but the accommodation similar though not quite so confined. We immediately proceeded at a pretty rapid rate up the river, there being a pretty strong breeze blowing which kept down the temperature...
...Meals were provided on board in rather better style than the canal boat, and thus the passengers passed the afternoon mostly on deck, till a beautifully clear starry evening replaced the day, inducing many to remain on deck as long as possible- till late at night. Feeling chilly at length I descended to the saloon and there attempted to sleep away the feeling of discomfort, until about 2 o’clock in the morning I heard the welcome intelligence that we were approaching Boulaq, the port of Cairo.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
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