Sunday 3rd April 1853

"Alexandria" c.1850
Image copyright of P&O Heritage

This morning we entered the Bay of Alexandria. The sky was cloudless but rather hazy of a rather pale blue with a tinge of pink, the sea was of a beautiful bright greenish blue colour and the low yellow coast stretched along the horizon in the distance: the scene was alike novel and beautiful... I have also stated at different times that the temperature had become mild during the voyage; indeed on the day succeeding that on which we left England we found it perceptibly milder and it continued to improve as we proceeded, at no time however except when on shore at Gibraltar and Malta could it be said to be warm; now it was to such an extent, as to make some changes in dress a decided improvement. About 1 o’clock we had luncheon with meat etc a dinner in fact, and shortly afterwards we came to anchor near the shore. We had taken an Egyptian pilot on board before and now we found ourselves surrounded by boats manned by native sailors in eastern costume...Some people came on board of superior rank, their dress generally composed of woollen cloth blue or brown ornamented with lace. The passengers proceeded to go to the shore in the small boats each taking a small quantity of luggage for present use: our party which included two ladies with a nurse and baby went to the Hotel d ‘Europe, which we found crowded with people many of the passengers from the Bentinck being there that vessel having arrived at Suez some days before, having brought a large number of passengers, 150 first class I believe .Everything in Alexandria is new to the English visitor; the dirty tawdry looking houses , the narrow streets, the small poor paltry shops and the inhabitants of every variety of kind and colour, English,French,Italian,Arab and other Egyptians, and Arabians, as black as coal. I had heard before of the donkeys and donkey boys of Alexandria, and was not long in becoming personally acquainted with them, they surrounded the omnibus in which we proceeded from the wharf to the hotel, vociferating in broken English “Take a donkey, take a donkey”. The hotel is situated in a very large and very wide street, on ,as it may be called, long square, almost the only fine thing in the way of street in the town, in which are situated hotels, public offices, and mercantile establishments. Many of the buildings are of European architecture.

I have forgotten to mention that in passing from the vessel to the shore we passed several large vessels of war, steam and railway ships, belonging to the Pacha. No passports or any such thing were required. After we had arrived about 5 o’clock in the afternoon, along with a few other gentlemen, I went to the Transit Office and there obtained tickets to pass us across to Suez. We had been followed by donkey boys thither and on leaving it were about to proceed to the Post Office on foot but on hearing that we were trying to go we were not quite certain where, our followers impressed the necessity of their assistance upon us in the most zealous and impetuous manner, crowding round us a fairly inclosing us each of them vociferating at the pitch of his voice the praises of his own steed. After trying in vain to escape from them I was at length induced to capitulate and mount a charger belonging to a half naked solicitor; away we cantered to the Post Office, the owners running behind us or by our sides. Of course they would take any amount however high you might choose to give them; however, we bargained for the ride for a shilling...On my return to the hotel I had some conversation with my guide as well as we could understand each other. He addressed me as “My Father”, and impressed upon me that a shilling was nothing to me but of importance to him, he also informed me that he had travelled as servant to a gentleman a good deal, and volunteered to act in the same capacity to me, an offer which I was obliged to decline... 

...The day was warm though not more so than a warm summer day in England.Our walk outside took us to the suburbs where we saw some specimens of palms and other tropical vegetation. In one of these walks we passed the Victoria Hotel of which I heard a favourable report; the one in which our party put up was not the most comfortable. At 6 o’clock the omnibuses drove up to the hotel to convey the passengers to the Mahmoudieh Canal, a mile or two distant, where we got on board a boat somewhat in the style of a Liverpool ferry boat but smaller: it had a saloon with a seat all round, camp stools and two long tables, with a smaller similar apartment for ladies. This was attached by a rope to a small steamer which was to drag us along to Atfeh on the Nile. We started about 7 o’clock on a beautiful starry evening, but it is needless to dwell on the circumstances of the night passage which was not particularly comfortable. It is sufficient to say that we got below in very indifferent style, and passed the night as we best could; some on deck, some below, some sleeping, reclining on the seat lying on the table or sitting on the stools, or attempting to sleep; some playing cards: those who had wrappers enough came best off on deck, but I was not of that number having neglected to provide myself with such things; indeed not being aware of the necessity, the night being rather cool.

The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.

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