Sunday 3rd April 1853

"Alexandria" c.1850
Image copyright of P&O Heritage

This morning we entered the Bay of Alexandria. The sky was cloudless but rather hazy of a rather pale blue with a tinge of pink, the sea was of a beautiful bright greenish blue colour and the low yellow coast stretched along the horizon in the distance: the scene was alike novel and beautiful... I have also stated at different times that the temperature had become mild during the voyage; indeed on the day succeeding that on which we left England we found it perceptibly milder and it continued to improve as we proceeded, at no time however except when on shore at Gibraltar and Malta could it be said to be warm; now it was to such an extent, as to make some changes in dress a decided improvement. About 1 o’clock we had luncheon with meat etc a dinner in fact, and shortly afterwards we came to anchor near the shore. We had taken an Egyptian pilot on board before and now we found ourselves surrounded by boats manned by native sailors in eastern costume...Some people came on board of superior rank, their dress generally composed of woollen cloth blue or brown ornamented with lace. The passengers proceeded to go to the shore in the small boats each taking a small quantity of luggage for present use: our party which included two ladies with a nurse and baby went to the Hotel d ‘Europe, which we found crowded with people many of the passengers from the Bentinck being there that vessel having arrived at Suez some days before, having brought a large number of passengers, 150 first class I believe .Everything in Alexandria is new to the English visitor; the dirty tawdry looking houses , the narrow streets, the small poor paltry shops and the inhabitants of every variety of kind and colour, English,French,Italian,Arab and other Egyptians, and Arabians, as black as coal. I had heard before of the donkeys and donkey boys of Alexandria, and was not long in becoming personally acquainted with them, they surrounded the omnibus in which we proceeded from the wharf to the hotel, vociferating in broken English “Take a donkey, take a donkey”. The hotel is situated in a very large and very wide street, on ,as it may be called, long square, almost the only fine thing in the way of street in the town, in which are situated hotels, public offices, and mercantile establishments. Many of the buildings are of European architecture.

I have forgotten to mention that in passing from the vessel to the shore we passed several large vessels of war, steam and railway ships, belonging to the Pacha. No passports or any such thing were required. After we had arrived about 5 o’clock in the afternoon, along with a few other gentlemen, I went to the Transit Office and there obtained tickets to pass us across to Suez. We had been followed by donkey boys thither and on leaving it were about to proceed to the Post Office on foot but on hearing that we were trying to go we were not quite certain where, our followers impressed the necessity of their assistance upon us in the most zealous and impetuous manner, crowding round us a fairly inclosing us each of them vociferating at the pitch of his voice the praises of his own steed. After trying in vain to escape from them I was at length induced to capitulate and mount a charger belonging to a half naked solicitor; away we cantered to the Post Office, the owners running behind us or by our sides. Of course they would take any amount however high you might choose to give them; however, we bargained for the ride for a shilling...On my return to the hotel I had some conversation with my guide as well as we could understand each other. He addressed me as “My Father”, and impressed upon me that a shilling was nothing to me but of importance to him, he also informed me that he had travelled as servant to a gentleman a good deal, and volunteered to act in the same capacity to me, an offer which I was obliged to decline... 

...The day was warm though not more so than a warm summer day in England.Our walk outside took us to the suburbs where we saw some specimens of palms and other tropical vegetation. In one of these walks we passed the Victoria Hotel of which I heard a favourable report; the one in which our party put up was not the most comfortable. At 6 o’clock the omnibuses drove up to the hotel to convey the passengers to the Mahmoudieh Canal, a mile or two distant, where we got on board a boat somewhat in the style of a Liverpool ferry boat but smaller: it had a saloon with a seat all round, camp stools and two long tables, with a smaller similar apartment for ladies. This was attached by a rope to a small steamer which was to drag us along to Atfeh on the Nile. We started about 7 o’clock on a beautiful starry evening, but it is needless to dwell on the circumstances of the night passage which was not particularly comfortable. It is sufficient to say that we got below in very indifferent style, and passed the night as we best could; some on deck, some below, some sleeping, reclining on the seat lying on the table or sitting on the stools, or attempting to sleep; some playing cards: those who had wrappers enough came best off on deck, but I was not of that number having neglected to provide myself with such things; indeed not being aware of the necessity, the night being rather cool.

The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.

Visit http://www.poheritage.com/ to see more of the P&O image collection and to find out more about about P&O's rich history. Follow P&O Heritage on @POHeritage

Saturday 2nd April 1853

Got up in time to go on deck this morning before breakfast and found the breeze gently moderated and now directly from the north... Nothing particular was to be seen on deck, as we had been out of sight of land since we had left Malta. In the course of the day a bell was rung suddenly on deck giving an alarm of fire, and on going out of the saloon I found a water hose lying along the main deck with a number of crew and officers about it. On enquiry I found that it was only an exercise , for the purpose of accustoming the crew to the use of the apparatus for extinguishing fire, and instructing everyone to know where to go in the event of any such occasion requiring it, instead of running about, at a loss alike where to go and what to do. This plan had been adopted since the catastrophe of the burning of the Amazon in January 1852. In the afternoon the passengers made up their lists of parties of 6 each for the vans across the desert and one of the ships officers drew lots for the order in which they were to proceed....

The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.

Friday 1st April 1853

Last night there was more rolling and pitching, crashes and noises than we have had since we set out. I tried in vain to rise and was obliged to content myself with a little breakfast in bed and a bit of bread with some brandy and water at midday. As the day advanced the violence of the gale abated and I managed to get up in time to get a little dinner at table. Towards evening I so far recovered after tea as to be able to play draughts with a fellow passenger and gain 5 games out of 7. I had also visited the deck but no land had been in sight since we had left Malta. Before retiring to bed I had an opportunity of seeing the phosphorescence of the waters which I formerly adverted to and had seen several times since... The wind had been changing today and the vessel was making good progress again.


The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.

Thursday 31st March 1853

Yesterday evening’s fears respecting the weather were realised to the full. I rolled about in bed and passed a very uncomfortable night. On getting up I felt sick and puked, but managed to get dressed, take a little breakfast, and go on deck. The wind was very strong and right ahead, the ship pitching and rolling violently the sea frequently breaking over the deck. I remained up till after dinner but was then obliged to go to my cabin, being sick and finally got rid of my dinner as I had of other food that day. I had changed my berth the day before from one downstairs near the middle of the vessel to one in the saloon and thought I had changed for the better, but now found that though it was pleasanter, being better lighted, yet being nearer the stern there was much more motion. The gale had been increasing in violence all day and many of the passengers were confined to their cabins. The progress of the vessel was. I believe, only from 3 to 5 miles an hour, her usual rate being 10 to 12.

The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.

Wednesday 30th March 1853

The morning was fine and there was abundance of bustle on board as we were receiving the mails and passengers with their luggage. About a dozen passengers joined us here, I believe, making up the losses we had sustained at Gibraltar, as well as a few more at Malta. I observed a rather dirty looking Arab in Turkish costume added to our list, as a second class passenger. About 10 o’clock we started off and soon lost sight of Malta and of land: the weather was fine and the breeze gentle but against us. It increased in strength however during the day, giving little promise of a comfortable evening.

The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.

Tuesday 29th March 1853

"Malta"
 Image copyright of P&O Heritage

This morning the wind had considerably abated and the sea was much quieter. About 8 o’clock we found ourselves opposite Goza, one of the Maltese group  of islands and coasting along this, passing this still smaller island Cuneiro ,we arrived at, Valetta, the capital of Malta about 10 o’clock forenoon...

...I had undertaken the charge of two ladies, and along with another gentleman and his wife, we went ashore by means of a small boat, many of which were at the ship’s side waiting for the passengers. On reaching the shore we ascended a considerable way by means of stairs till we reached the town and then up narrow steep streets towards the principal squares of the town. There we proceeded first to some shops where some of our party wished to make purchases. A jewellers shop was the first of them in which we found some trinkets for which I believe Malta is celebrated, made of coral and lava. Of the coral are formed small articles such as keys, anchors crosses, shoes, horse-shoes etc called charms usually strung together in bunches of 6 or more, and worn attached to the watch chain, believed by the Italians, I was told,, to have a protecting influence over the wearer.Of the lava, white, greenish gray, or light greenish brown colours are made brooches with figures cut on them in relief. Of both materials I saw bracelets of various forms, some composed of links of fanciful form fastening over the wrist with a clasp, or of beads strung upon a thin band of vulcanised indian rubber. The most novel of these however were the serpents composed of joints adapted neatly to one another, strung upon a spring forming two coils on a spiral, which could be opened out sufficiently to enable it to be passed over the hand clasping the wrist comfortably when in its place a carved head projected from one end of the spiral which terminated in a neat tail at the other.Some of these serpents were also formed of shell such as cameos are sometimes made of. Another class of articles was composed of silver filigree work such as brooches, card cases etc very beautiful. A basket was shown us of this kind of manufacture which had been exhibited at the Great Exhibition in London, 1851, and for which the artist had obtained a prize medal and a certificate both of which were displayed in the shop.In another shop which we visited some articles of French manufacture were to be found cheap- articles of ladies dress and kid gloves, with some of the last of which I supplied myself.
The streets were in general narrow, some very much so, and some worthy of being called broad. The architecture was peculiar, the most noticeable features being the prevalence of large windows projecting above the ground story, overhanging the street. There were several fine squares in the town, some public buildings of modern architecture, but more of them ancient- old churches or large residences of Italian appearance some of them formerly tenanted by the Knights of Malta
From our elevated spot we had a view of the principal harbour containing a great many vessels of different countries among them a considerable number of large ships of war. All around the harbour were the fortifications which I did not inspect, but which are said to be almost as strong as those of Gibraltar. We then visited St John’s Church...

...We next visited the English protestant church erected by the late Queen Dowager Adelaide, a very handsome building externally and equally chaste and handsome in its interior: the simplicity being a great relief from the overpowering gorgeousness of the building we had just left. Thence we proceeded to the Governor’s residence in which we had a view of the dining room, a fine room with portraits of some of the old Grand Masters...

...After having posted some letters and seen two of the ladies of our party on board, I returned to the other lady and gentleman (a young married couple) at a hotel where we had luncheon. We then hired a one horse car and set off, with the intention of proceeding to Civita Vecchia (the old city) some 6 mile distant where there are extensive catacombs, and a cave, called St Pauls cave in which it is stated the Apostle resided for 3 months when shipwrecked. The car in which we rode is worthy of notice a it was in the general style of these vehicles in Malta. The body was of the ordinary form of an English car, but the axle tree was far back, as far as the back of the body, instead of being below its middle...

...One of the most characteristic features of the town is the number of priests on the streets, generally dressed in black with  breeches and stockings, black cloaks, and great broad brimmed hats turned up to some extent like the three cornered cocked hat. Some we also saw walking to and from the churches in white robes. Men in Moorish and Oriental costumes we also saw on the street, though not in greater proportion than in Gibraltar. Instead of the graceful Spanish costume of the ladies, the Maltese fashion is a kind of hood held over the head, something like the petticoat drawn up over the head: most of the females however we saw in this dress were of the poorer class, those of higher rank being almost all in English dress and apparently English people. A few of the girls, apparently natives, were rather pretty, though personal beauty did not appear to be very characteristic of the population...

..Many of the passengers went to the Italian Opera, which is open every alternate evening, but we returned to the vessel about 9oclock, the Sultan carrying mail and passengers from Marseilles, arrived in the harbour, passing us in the dark. A few gentlemen of her company came aboard our vessel shortly afterwards, and later in the evening, the greater part of our own passengers came on board also.


The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.

Visit http://www.poheritage.com/ to see more of the P&O image collection and to find out more about about P&O's rich history. Follow P&O Heritage on @POHeritage 

Monday 28th March 1853

It had blown hard all night and to a great extent interrupted or prevented the sleep of the passengers. About 7oclock of the morning we passed Galeita at some distance, a rugged rocky island of small size; afterwards we passed the Cane rocks (Canis -or dog rocks); and about 3 o’clock afternoon Zemba Island, a still smaller rocky island than Galeita. These two islands are either uninhabited, or used as penal settlements by the Sicilian or Maltese governments.
The wind continued to blow all day, though not quite to such an extent as on Saturday afternoon and night. About 5 o’clock of the afternoon, while the table cloth was removing preparatory to the dessert, intelligence was brought downstairs that the “Indus” was in sight-(one of the Company’s steamers) on her way to Gibraltar. Most of the passengers immediately repaired to the deck, and there was the vessel with her masts and funnels rather obscurely visible on the eastern horizon through the spray and mist, forcing her way against the wind and waves; on our right a bold promontory stretched out towards the east, Cape Bon on the coast of Africa; and gradually but rapidly the “Indus” made her way between our vessel and the land, soon disappearing behind us...

The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.