Friday 25th March 1853

This morning before 9 o’clock the discharge of two of the ships guns announced our arrival in the Bay of Gibraltar... The air was rather chilly but by and by the sun arose above the low slip of land on the eastern boundary of the bay adding light, and afterwards warmth to the scene. We stood in directly for the town, which lay before us at the base of the rock of Gibraltar, a high ridge of rock sloping down to a low projecting point on our right called Europa point, and ending abruptly on the left in an almost precipitous form. Beyond this a low slip of land extended on the left and behind us forming the north western side of the bay, rising up into the high lands of Spain. Far away to the left in the distance stretched the lofty ridge of the mountains in the north of Africa. In passing one of the vessels lying in the bay some of the spars of our vessel came in contact with the rigging of the other, and snapped off its top foremast, with some damage to our own rigging.
At length we got laid alongside of a hulk, from which we were to be supplied with coals; while the passengers were preparing to go ashore, a few as the place of their destination, and also for seeing the towns fortifications. As one of a party for the latter purpose I got into a boat, one of the number gathered near our paddle boxes, the owners of which were vigorously clamouring for customers.Some of these were apparently English, but the majority were dirty swarthy Spaniards. We bargained for our boat fare and were rowed ashore. A long line of fortified seawall stretched along the shore in front of the town a pier or mole of similar structure projecting a little into the bay. We landed and immediately proceeded to one of the principal squares of the town, where we found the Club House Hotel, opposite which stood the Exchange. In the Hotel, after some delay and with some difficulty we got breakfast, there being a press of visitors, and at an early hour. After this we set forth on our excursion led by a guide who had been watching for customers. On our way a party of soldiers passed us, headed by a band marching to church, for it happened to be Good Friday, rather unfortunately, for except those of the Druggists the shops were closed. The various signboards displayed inscriptions, sometimes in English generally in both English and Spanish, and advertisements in both these languages adorned the walls in several places; in one instance I saw a government notice in English, Spanish and Italian-Notice, Aviso,Avviso. The streets were narrow and many of them steep. The houses were built apparently of brick but covered with plaster and generally coloured of an ochre yellow, pretty uniform in appearance. Occasionally a house met our view of superior style of architecture, apparently either a gentleman’s residence or a public building. Whether it was the general appearance of the town or not I cannot tell but at present it struck me as more than usually neat and clean.
We proceeded up steep streets and roads towards the “Galleries”. These are excavations or tunnels cut in the rock on the side furthest from the town. These tunnels run parallel to the surface of the rock at about 6 or 8 yards distance from the external surface, having other excavations communicating with them towards the surface, opening out there by a comparatively small aperture in each of which stands a large gun pointing outwards. Some of these excavations were sufficiently large to allow space for several guns: one containing 5 cannons was called St Georges Hall. In this we were informed a dinner was once given to Nelson and it is occasionally used for balls or similar entertainment during the heat of summer. From the opening in one side of this we could see the Atlantic, from those on the other the Mediterranean. In some places also, outside the rock, were cannons or mortars to be seen and from some of these the view was beautiful.
The bay with its boundaries lay before us, the hills of Spain and the mountains of Africa stretched out on the one side and the other. At our feet lay the low flat narrow neck of land connecting the rock with the mainland. Within the British line of boundary which stretched across this, lay a cemetery dotted over with numerous stones covering the remains of the dead; around this was the racecourse and adjoining, a pretty numerous herd of cattle for the sustenance of the garrison. A little further on,stretched parallel to the other , was the Spanish boundary line, between these two a narrow space of land called the Neutral ground. Beyond the Spanish boundary line the ground sloped gradually upwards and there stood the Spanish batteries, when the Spaniards last attempted to take Gibraltar from the English...

...The inhabitants consisted chiefly of English and Spaniards; with   whom the latter appeared most numerous particularly those of the poorer ranks.. in general dark and swarthy they did not strike me as in other respects handsome; many of the poorer women were the reverse.The hat of the men was one of the most noticeable things; low crowned beavers with broad brims turned up abruptly at a right angle for 2 or 3 inches, with a small tuft on the upper edge of one side of the brim and another on the same side of the edge of the crown. The large cloak of many of those above the poorer grade struck an observer as something unnecessarily comfortable in such a climate. The most pleasing piece of costume was that of the Spanish ladies, many of whom we met on their way to and from church. They were almost uniformly dressed in black silk or satin, generally with a shawl or short mantle of similar material over their shoulders, sometimes with a handsome fringe along its lower border; but the chief peculiarity was the headdress. Their black hair was entirely uncovered all over the forepart of the head; but about the middle in front of the comb, was attached a black veil which hung down over the back of the head neck and shoulders, down to about the waist. In this style they proceeded with somewhat stately gait and composed air along the streets; and though few of them were pretty or tall. Their general appearance was graceful and pleasing....

The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.

Thursday 24th March 1853

This morning with bright sky and quiet water we came in sight of Cape St Vincent arriving opposite to it at about 10 o’clock. All day the coast in view was abruptly rocky, both north and south of the Cape. On the summit of the rocky promontory stood a large monastery, whether in use as such at present or not, I do not know; but viewed through telescope it appeared a place well adapted to keep its inmates in privacy, having a somewhat castellated appearance... A little further southwards stood the fort of Sagnes, presenting to view a somewhat extended line of fortifications with a number of dwelling houses within and near it. A little further on mountains were seen evidently at a very  considerable distance inland; but in the foreground, stretching inland from the summit of the rocky precipice which formed the coast was a grassy surface, with here and there white objects resolving themselves under the telescope into country dwelling houses.Not far off were also discerned by its aid a few small windmills at work with curious white  triangular sails. Saw other portions of the coast also presented cliffs of a softer character, with a pleasant sandy beach. The sun shone out brightly and the deck was studded with groups of passengers enjoying the beauty of the scene...

...The sun, for the first time, set in an unclouded sky, sinking down behind the horizon of water, while the full moon, already above the horizon in the east, gained in brilliancy by the withdrawal of the orb of day... In the absence of land the only thing that gave visible evidence of progress was the occasional occurrence of a sail, which, now in advance of us, speedily was left behind. A vessel in full sail passed us in the evening, visible by the soft light of the full moon in a cloudless sky, but I could not long enjoy the scene having been occupied all evening in preparing letters for Gibraltar, which we were now rapidly approaching, and in anticipation of which I had to make preparations for rising early next morning.

The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.

Wednesday 23rd March 1853

The Ripon. Image copyright of P&O Heritage.

This morning the weather continued fine the temperature becoming sensibly milder. Most of the ladies made their appearance in the forenoon and came on deck; the sun shone out- and for half an hour before luncheon the band played on deck. By paying her a little attention I had gained the confidence of a young lady, of about one year old and took her to see the livestock on board, which I found more considerable than I had at first supposed, - another lot of sheep than those I had observed at first, some dozen or so, besides a number of turkeys, pigeons, geese, and a still greater number of poultry and ducks. The little lady was on her way with her mother and nurse to Shanghai to join her father who had never seen her, having left the country a fortnight after being married. The mother had been laid up very poorly almost from the commencement of the voyage from sea sickness, while the little creature had not suffered at all....

The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.

Visit http://www.poheritage.com/ to see more of the P&O image collection and to find out more about about P&O's rich history. Follow P&O Heritage on @POHeritage

Tuesday 22nd March 1853

Awoke this morning and found the rolling and pitching of the vessel worse. The fiddles at breakfast did not prevent me from getting some of my coffee on my lap, and on going on deck I found the waves high and rolling the wind blowing strongly the vessel rising alternately stem and stern, now leaning over by one side now to the other making it not a little troublesome for the landsmen to keep their feet and occasionally causing even the officers of the ship to totter. Spray occasionally washing over some part of the deck, and occasional blast of rain & hail made walking the deck agreeable only the few who perhaps like myself, had a mind to brave it out and by accustoming themselves to it probably get rid of sickness altogether during the remainder of the passage. I felt just so much tendency to nausea as made me fear that if I gave way to it & sat moping below, I might get sick; so today I took some luncheon at 12 o’clock and I think will benefit. The weather became worse after dinner, when towards evening the sea became rather quieter and continued so. Yesterday forenoon we had entered the Bay of Biscay; this evening about sunset we were leaving it, and got a distant view of Cape Finisterre. In the evening the improvement in the weather was indicated, by a lady, hitherto laid up with sickness, making her appearance after tea, and a greater number of gentlemen also becoming visible and the evening passed pleasantly   the company as they chose playing cards chess or draughts, reading, writing or merely lounging and listening to the band.

The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.

Monday 21st March 1853

Rose this morning in time to have a walk on deck before breakfast which is ready at 9 o'clock. Tea and coffee are brought in cups to the passengers as they require it is ready milked while sugar is on the table, with ham and eggs, fish, cold meat and fowls as well as rice and curried meat or fowl with cold water. I observed one gentleman breakfast on ham and eggs followed by rice and curry with cold water- the Indian style I suppose. The swell on the water had become greater and few ladies made their appearance at the breakfast table.

After breakfast I go to my desk and commenced this journal writing in the saloon till between 12 and 1 o’clock. At 12oclock luncheon is served...As I did not care for eating so often I took none except a glass of wine but afterwards doubted the propriety of this as the breeze had been increasing in strength and the ship tossing about more. I went on deck and kept walking about till dinner time to keep off a tendency to nausea, the more necessary as the rolling of the vessel was increasing. Only one lady appeared at the dinner table. After dinner went on deck again and walked till teatime, or sat and read. After tea, about 8 o’clock a band consisting of a violincello, two violins, a clarinet, and two trumpets a piston (that is their players) took their places at stalls in the saloon, and played until about 10 o’clock, when wine and spirits with sugar and hot water and biscuits was put on the table...

...About ½ past 10 went to bed but the rolling of the vessel jigging one about from one side of the bed to the other, the perpetual slamming of doors and often recurring crashes, as if of broken glass or stoneware for a long time kept sleep away. At length however the wished for oblivion came over me.
Such was the routine of the two first days of my voyage and a repetition of the details will now be unnecessary...

The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.

Sunday 20th March 1853

David Waldie's Travel Journal

This morning we went on board the vessel, which was now lying at the entrance to the dock, between 8 and 9 o’clock. Immediately after receiving the mail at 9 the Ripon began to move slowly out the dock. Some amusement was caused by a passenger hurrying forward to come on board, after she had moved off. He proceeded however by passing down a ladder with some trepidation into a small boat thence reaching the deck by the companion ladder. So he managed at the last hour to avoid being left behind.

On reaching the extremity of the pier the vessel quickened her pace and after waving adieus to our friends on shore we proceeded rapidly down the Solent or rather the estuary of that river at the top of which Southampton is situated. It was a beautiful clear frosty morning suggestive of the change of climate we looked forward very speedily to experience....

....The number of passengers was not great- about 80 of all kinds I afterwards learned, consequently we were not crowded and I found that I was the only occupant of my berth which was intended to accommodate four. The list of passengers included a number of ladies, some married and 6 children. Among the gentlemen I found one whom I believe I had met with in Liverpool and who was acquainted with a friend of mine there, all of us Scotchmen...

.... Two Hindoo women were also on board apparently servants of passengers and I also observed a rather fine looking Hindoo of other oriental of the male sex. There were also three or four women, one with a child (English or European) apparently servants, in the fore part of the vessel.

At 4 o’clock the bugle sounded for dinner. The company assembled after having paid some attention to the toilet-, but by no means in formal dress. The dinner was good, with wine, dessert and fruit, and the passengers were beginning to become acquainted with one another. On deck we found some canvas was spread aloft to help us on our way. Between 7 and 8 o’clock the bugle again summoned the passengers to tea which was brought in cups by the waiters as the company wished it. After tea feeling rather chilly I walked smartly along the deck for about an hour before going to bed. It was a beautiful clear moonlight night and closed agreeably my first day’s experience of living on shipboard.

At 10 o’clock I retired to my berth in which a candle lamp had been burning for some time, went to bed and having had little sleep for some days previous, was soon in a state of blessed unconsciousness.

The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.

Saturday 19th March 1853

"Southampton Docks" c.1850
 Image copyright of P&O Heritage 

I left London for Southampton at 11 o’clock Ack-per rail, arrived there a little after 1 o’clock and proceeded to dispose of my luggage. After paying 2/-  for passing through the dockyard gate I reached a large shed where the luggage was taken charge of by the porters and deposited in the luggage room until it was convenient to place it on the vessel. This was the Peninsular & Oriental Steam Navigation Company’s vessel, “Ripon”, a large paddle wheeled steamer, which was lying in the dock, close alongside the luggage room... We accordingly spent a few hours in getting dinner and taking a view of the town? It appeared a clean, pleasantly situated place well supplied with good shops and having many good buildings, particularly in the central parts of the town near the docks. In the evening before dark we visited and inspected the ship, which we found very much to our satisfaction.

The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.

Visit http://www.poheritage.com/ to see more of the P&O image collection and to find out more about about P&O's rich history. Follow P&O Heritage on @POHeritage