This morning it was very warm and continued during the day, there being almost no wind. By noon we had run 121 miles and were now as far east as the most easternmost point of the island of Socotra, but about 100 miles to the south of it. We were now about to cross the Indian ocean to Ceylon and should be out of sight of land on the open sea for many days...
..This evening the sunset was the finest I had seen since I left England or for a long time before. Numerous clouds of the well known characters composed of rounded masses heaped over one another, floated in the sky in all directions, but more particularly appeared accumulated all round the lower part of the firmament , in a stratum with long level base at no great distance above the horizon. Beyond and obscurely seen below this, similar clouds occupied the space between these and the horizons. Much higher in the atmosphere another class of clouds floated in smaller number, these light and fleecy, - the curse of the meteorologist. As the sun sunk behind the clouds his disk became only partially visible, a brilliant crimson spot, surrounded by light of the same colour and scarcely less bright reflected from the edges of the clouds in the extreme west, and visible through the spaces left between the clouds which occupied the firmament between these and the observer...
...The fiddlers this evening played at the bows of the vessel for the benefit of the sailors who are generally granted that privilege on Saturday evenings. They danced sailor dances two of them being decked out in female costume; songs also diversified the entertainment and on the whole they conducted themselves with so much decorum as their superiors of the preceding evening; or rather considering the difference of their circumstances, with greater.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Sunday, June 30, 2013
Friday, June 28, 2013
Friday 22nd April 1853
This morning at half past 6 o’clock a funeral took place on board.One of the stewards had been ill, I believe of consumption almost ever since the vessel started on her voyage, and died yesterday evening. The body was laid on a board at a place projecting behind the paddle wheel on the main deck, the feet, loaded with a weight toward the sea. The captain surrounded by a number of the officers, sailors and stewards. Read the burial service of the Church of England and when he came to the words(substituted for those employed on land )” We therefore commit his body to the deep”, the sailors raised the end of the board on which the head lay and it immediately slid down into the water. The body was wrapped in sheeting and as it lay on the board was covered with a flag, which of course was removed when the plank was raised.
By noon it was found that we had run 157 miles in the last 24 hours: the wind was still against us but the breeze had almost gone down. During the course of the day we saw some islands on our left at some distance, - Abdel Koun about halfway between Gardafui and Socotra and later one of the islands called the Brothers (apparently those marked Derz on my map), a precipitous rock at a considerable distance. Our course lay too much to the south to allow us to see Socotra, a much larger island than any of these.
In the evening the moon was nearly full and shone beautifully on deck. The fiddlers usually played after tea in the evening, and some of the passengers (all of the male sex) got up a quadrille this evening and attempted some polkaing. Shortly one of them made his appearance dressed in female attire and created some amusement. Another followed his example, the most robust and powerful looking man amongst the passengers. He however overdid his part, and in my opinion spoiled the sport.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Wednesday, June 26, 2013
Thursday 21st April 1853
Today it was almost calm and we had made 138 miles in the last 24 hours.
This morning a bold coast appeared on our right and continued in view all day while daylight lasted... During the afternoon the land was sufficiently near to be viewed by telescope: the beach was sandy, but the coast beyond appeared verdant and the hills in the background also. I saw no inhabitants but some others at another place observed a village. This country from Gardafui westwards towards Abyssinia is marked on the map Somauli, and is the country whence the negroes of Aden come.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
This morning a bold coast appeared on our right and continued in view all day while daylight lasted... During the afternoon the land was sufficiently near to be viewed by telescope: the beach was sandy, but the coast beyond appeared verdant and the hills in the background also. I saw no inhabitants but some others at another place observed a village. This country from Gardafui westwards towards Abyssinia is marked on the map Somauli, and is the country whence the negroes of Aden come.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Monday, June 24, 2013
Wednesday 20th April 1853
The breeze became so gentle today that the vessel kept her course without tacking. Since yesterday we had advanced 106 miles. This was the warmest day we had had, the thermometer at noon being 89 F. In the Red Sea it had ranged from 74 F to 88 F in the shade at noon.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Saturday, June 22, 2013
Tuesday 19th April 1853
The breeze abated somewhat, though still against us. We had got out of sight of land, and had run 91 miles from noon yesterday till noon today.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Thursday, June 20, 2013
Monday 18th April 1853
Early this morning the stewards were taken on shore and brought before the Magistrate: the riingleaders were condemned to imprisonment for 12 weeks and the rest returned to their duty. After breakfast preparations were made for leaving. A French steamer, the same which had passed us in the Red Sea had anchored the previous evening in the channel by which we had to proceed, and required to move out of the way. But this obstacle was soon removed, the stewards assisted with the capstan and before noon we had begun to move. On our way we passed a vessel- the Belouchie of Belfast, which along with some other vessels had been lying there since our arrival. The breeze was against us and rather stronger than we either anticipated or wished, but we made the best of our way with our single paddle wheel, and in the course of the afternoon were out of sight of land on our route to Ceylon. Hitherto I had been occupying a cabin along with another passenger, but as there was now plenty of room I got a cabin to myself, one on the poop next the Captain’s.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Monday, June 17, 2013
Sunday 17th April 1853
I went on shore this morning at 6 o’clock with two fellow passengers. Boats were waiting for us, manned by negroes of peculiar appearance, whom we found afterwards to constitute a large proportion of the population on shore. They had much less of the peculiarities of the negro than I had been accustomed to see, their features being almost European and the colour not very black. The hair was wooly, some were almost destitute of hair. I suppose shaven whilst others had long wooly hair of a brown reddish or yellowish colour. I afterwards found that this, in some cases at least, was in reality a cap or wig of sheepskin with the wool on, but was informed that in other cases it was their own hair, dyed, or coloured artificially. They were very scantily clothed, generally with a white cloth wrapped round them sometimes thrown over the shoulder, but in a great many cases only wrapped round the loins. On reaching the shore we were met by a crowd of similar people with ponies and donkeys for hire, but we walked direct to the Hotel which was close at hand and bespoke breakfast...
... The road wound along and not far from the coast line, and we proceeded until we came to some fortifications and a little further on to a gate which was open but at which some sepoys were stationed, who informed us that we were not allowed to go further....We turned at the gate I have already mentioned and rode along a flat plain, where were placed some guns and buildings for military purposes. The plain was of circular form mad of considerable extent, and the mountains rose at once from its level surface, as if masses of matter had been spewed up and solidified, and subsequently assumed the rough surface and irregular form from the effects of atmospheric action...Having reached the border of this plain we ascended a rather steep road cut in one of the surrounding hills, which was also fortified. From the top of this hill we could look towards the mainland, and now saw that the ground on which we stood formed part of a peninsula connected to the country beyond by a narrow isthmus. We saw the sea on each side of the connecting neck of land; the isthmus itself and the mainland for a long distance to the interior was a dead level apparently sandy and barren; but the atmosphere was not sufficiently clear to enable us to ascertain its true character. The gate at which we were stopped was in the wall which divides the British territory from the rest of Arabia, running across the isthmus; the hills in many places are fortified so as to command the bay and approaches by land... We descended to the plain and rode forward to the town going direct to the Post Office, of which the principal person in attendance was, I suppose, a Parsee, who spoke English very well. We called at two or three shops in the same row which were very good. They are generally kept by Parsees, I believe, and above the doors were small sign boards in English letters with the owners name and the words “Europe Shop”
The contents of the shops were generally rather miscellaneous, drapery articles hardware, trinkets and other ornamental articles, stationery, drugs liqueurs and preserved fruits etc. The drugs and better class of articles were generally put up in packages, English and French, the prices of course high. As we were desirous of returning to the Hotel as soon as possible to avoid unnecessary exposure during the heat of the day, we immediately mounted our ponies and cantered along the road at the base of the hill we had crossed, passed below an arch connecting the fortifications of two opposite hills between which the road passed and soon joined the road along the shore by which we had come, and by which we returned again to the Hotel at a rapid pace, arriving at about ¼ past 9 o’clock.
On our way along the road we passed numbers of the inhabitants of the district proceeding in one direction or the other generally on foot, a few on horseback or in carriages. The population consist entirely of the troops and government officials with their necessary appendages. The troops are Sepoys from Bombay with British officers; then there are a magistrate or magistrates, a clergyman (with a church), post office officials etc. In connection with these as necessary appendages as well as for the convenience of passengers to and from India, are hotels and shops. There is the Hotel at the landing place and a shop adjoining it; whether there is any hotel at the Cantonments I am not aware, but there are a number of shops, these as I have already mentioned being kept by Parsees: the proprietor of the Hotel at the landing place was also one of the same people. Besides these there are the servants of the officers, brought with them from India, and the Negroes I have already described who act as servants, batmen, donkey and pony boys etc. These Negroes I am informed are from the Somauli coast opposite, lying between Cape Gardafui and Abyssinia. I have already noticed their dress; that of the Hindoo servants we met on the road was similar to that I have already described belonging to the sailors on board the Bentinck. The Arabs were driven out when the British took the place about 15 years ago and there are now none resident. I believe they come to traffic, but I didn’t observe any.
... At some distance in the interior the country is said to be beautiful and fertile, but it is little known, as the Arabs are hostile and travellers are liable to be robbed and murdered.
We breakfasted at the Hotel, after our return, on fish, fowl, mutton, curry and rice with tea and coffee.The fish was good, the animal food tolerably so. The tea and coffee were bad, the water here being like that at Suez, brackish, unpleasant to the taste, and, I presume, unfit for preparing these beverages of good quality. After breakfast we loitered about the Hotel, as the sun’s heat was too great for walking abroad without risk of bad consequences, but there was a good breeze, it was comparatively cool under cover...
...As we lounged about the verandah the Negro boys came about us offering for sale pieces of rock, shells or specimens of vegetation. They had a slight smattering of English sufficient to enable them to say how much they wanted for their articles, which was generally 4 annas: I took two or three trifles and got them readily for 2 annas. The coins in use here are the E I Company’s rupees and annas; one rupee being equal to two shillings and one anna to three halfpence sterling; 16 annas being equal to one rupee. I have already noticed the features of these Negroes; their persons were also generally pretty good, the greatest imperfection being the deficiency in the calf of the leg. In many of them however, the chest and arms are well formed and handsome. The palms of the hands were much fairer than the general colour of the body and the soles of the feet were not much darker than those of a European. Their expression was generally merry and intelligent, and they were active enough when they had anything to do; but they seemed to like to lie basking in the sun. As they moved about with their scanty clothing I envied them the freedom of their movements, and the coolness of the breeze playing on their uncovered skin.
Some of the passengers remained on shore to dine, but along with some others I returned to the Bentinck at about 3 o’clock in the afternoon, and found, to my disappointment, that they had not yet finished taking in coals and that the whole ship was in a mess with coal dust. In the course of the evening hour even we got all ready and preparations were made for getting away. All hands were summoned on deck to assist in turning the capstan but the stewards, who had been working all day, refused, with two or three exceptions, to assist, as they had been working all day, and objected on the grounds that they were engaged as stewards not sailors. I cannot decide as to the merits of the question, but know that the stewards had always given their assistance before in such cases. As they persisted in their rebellion the Captain put them in irons and the ships departure was postponed till next day, as it was necessary to appeal to the magistrate on shore.
It was quite evident that the stewards were not under good government; their perpetual quarrelling and bickering with one another was anything but agreeable:the head steward was said to be a man unfit for his situation, and judging by appearances I should be disposed to concur in the opinion; the purser, who is the chief officer having superintendence of the department ,was a young man who appeared to think that a snappish finding fault with everything like a fault without any enquiry into its reasonableness or not, was a proper way of asserting his dignity.There was no such harmony as prevailed on board the Ripon, nor was the service performed so well.
While daylight lasted the passengers on shore had been arriving in boats and some negroes were swimming about petitioning for backsheesh. A quarter rupee was thrown over to one, who immediately dived after it and speedily reappeared holding it up in triumph. One or two passengers went on shore again, but most of them remained regretting the additional delay in our progress, already too prolonged.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
... The road wound along and not far from the coast line, and we proceeded until we came to some fortifications and a little further on to a gate which was open but at which some sepoys were stationed, who informed us that we were not allowed to go further....We turned at the gate I have already mentioned and rode along a flat plain, where were placed some guns and buildings for military purposes. The plain was of circular form mad of considerable extent, and the mountains rose at once from its level surface, as if masses of matter had been spewed up and solidified, and subsequently assumed the rough surface and irregular form from the effects of atmospheric action...Having reached the border of this plain we ascended a rather steep road cut in one of the surrounding hills, which was also fortified. From the top of this hill we could look towards the mainland, and now saw that the ground on which we stood formed part of a peninsula connected to the country beyond by a narrow isthmus. We saw the sea on each side of the connecting neck of land; the isthmus itself and the mainland for a long distance to the interior was a dead level apparently sandy and barren; but the atmosphere was not sufficiently clear to enable us to ascertain its true character. The gate at which we were stopped was in the wall which divides the British territory from the rest of Arabia, running across the isthmus; the hills in many places are fortified so as to command the bay and approaches by land... We descended to the plain and rode forward to the town going direct to the Post Office, of which the principal person in attendance was, I suppose, a Parsee, who spoke English very well. We called at two or three shops in the same row which were very good. They are generally kept by Parsees, I believe, and above the doors were small sign boards in English letters with the owners name and the words “Europe Shop”
The contents of the shops were generally rather miscellaneous, drapery articles hardware, trinkets and other ornamental articles, stationery, drugs liqueurs and preserved fruits etc. The drugs and better class of articles were generally put up in packages, English and French, the prices of course high. As we were desirous of returning to the Hotel as soon as possible to avoid unnecessary exposure during the heat of the day, we immediately mounted our ponies and cantered along the road at the base of the hill we had crossed, passed below an arch connecting the fortifications of two opposite hills between which the road passed and soon joined the road along the shore by which we had come, and by which we returned again to the Hotel at a rapid pace, arriving at about ¼ past 9 o’clock.
On our way along the road we passed numbers of the inhabitants of the district proceeding in one direction or the other generally on foot, a few on horseback or in carriages. The population consist entirely of the troops and government officials with their necessary appendages. The troops are Sepoys from Bombay with British officers; then there are a magistrate or magistrates, a clergyman (with a church), post office officials etc. In connection with these as necessary appendages as well as for the convenience of passengers to and from India, are hotels and shops. There is the Hotel at the landing place and a shop adjoining it; whether there is any hotel at the Cantonments I am not aware, but there are a number of shops, these as I have already mentioned being kept by Parsees: the proprietor of the Hotel at the landing place was also one of the same people. Besides these there are the servants of the officers, brought with them from India, and the Negroes I have already described who act as servants, batmen, donkey and pony boys etc. These Negroes I am informed are from the Somauli coast opposite, lying between Cape Gardafui and Abyssinia. I have already noticed their dress; that of the Hindoo servants we met on the road was similar to that I have already described belonging to the sailors on board the Bentinck. The Arabs were driven out when the British took the place about 15 years ago and there are now none resident. I believe they come to traffic, but I didn’t observe any.
... At some distance in the interior the country is said to be beautiful and fertile, but it is little known, as the Arabs are hostile and travellers are liable to be robbed and murdered.
We breakfasted at the Hotel, after our return, on fish, fowl, mutton, curry and rice with tea and coffee.The fish was good, the animal food tolerably so. The tea and coffee were bad, the water here being like that at Suez, brackish, unpleasant to the taste, and, I presume, unfit for preparing these beverages of good quality. After breakfast we loitered about the Hotel, as the sun’s heat was too great for walking abroad without risk of bad consequences, but there was a good breeze, it was comparatively cool under cover...
...As we lounged about the verandah the Negro boys came about us offering for sale pieces of rock, shells or specimens of vegetation. They had a slight smattering of English sufficient to enable them to say how much they wanted for their articles, which was generally 4 annas: I took two or three trifles and got them readily for 2 annas. The coins in use here are the E I Company’s rupees and annas; one rupee being equal to two shillings and one anna to three halfpence sterling; 16 annas being equal to one rupee. I have already noticed the features of these Negroes; their persons were also generally pretty good, the greatest imperfection being the deficiency in the calf of the leg. In many of them however, the chest and arms are well formed and handsome. The palms of the hands were much fairer than the general colour of the body and the soles of the feet were not much darker than those of a European. Their expression was generally merry and intelligent, and they were active enough when they had anything to do; but they seemed to like to lie basking in the sun. As they moved about with their scanty clothing I envied them the freedom of their movements, and the coolness of the breeze playing on their uncovered skin.
Some of the passengers remained on shore to dine, but along with some others I returned to the Bentinck at about 3 o’clock in the afternoon, and found, to my disappointment, that they had not yet finished taking in coals and that the whole ship was in a mess with coal dust. In the course of the evening hour even we got all ready and preparations were made for getting away. All hands were summoned on deck to assist in turning the capstan but the stewards, who had been working all day, refused, with two or three exceptions, to assist, as they had been working all day, and objected on the grounds that they were engaged as stewards not sailors. I cannot decide as to the merits of the question, but know that the stewards had always given their assistance before in such cases. As they persisted in their rebellion the Captain put them in irons and the ships departure was postponed till next day, as it was necessary to appeal to the magistrate on shore.
It was quite evident that the stewards were not under good government; their perpetual quarrelling and bickering with one another was anything but agreeable:the head steward was said to be a man unfit for his situation, and judging by appearances I should be disposed to concur in the opinion; the purser, who is the chief officer having superintendence of the department ,was a young man who appeared to think that a snappish finding fault with everything like a fault without any enquiry into its reasonableness or not, was a proper way of asserting his dignity.There was no such harmony as prevailed on board the Ripon, nor was the service performed so well.
While daylight lasted the passengers on shore had been arriving in boats and some negroes were swimming about petitioning for backsheesh. A quarter rupee was thrown over to one, who immediately dived after it and speedily reappeared holding it up in triumph. One or two passengers went on shore again, but most of them remained regretting the additional delay in our progress, already too prolonged.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Wednesday, June 12, 2013
Saturday 16th April 1853
 |
| "Aden" Image copyright of P&O Heritage |
...The East India Company’s steamer Auckland (a vessel of war) was lying close at hand waiting to convey the mails and passengers from the Bentinck to Bombay. The Captain and other officers from the Auckland and from the shore came on board almost immediately after our arrival and all was now bustle and confusion on board our ship. The luggage had been brought on deck during the course of the day, that is, that belonging to the Bombay passengers and now these passengers were busying themselves in getting it transferred to the Auckland by means of small boats, as well as bidding adieus, and transferring themselves. It was good moonlight and the deck had been the resort of the passengers during the whole evening, for as we approached Aden rockets had been discharged giving warning of our approach and answered, and as we neared our port two guns were fired. Our delay had been giving rise to apprehensions amongst those who were waiting our arrival.
Eighteen passengers, including four ladies, the half of those on board, left us in order to proceed to Bombay. The captain of the Auckland went off with two of the ladies at the last to take care of them, and two or three of our remaining passengers followed in another boat to take care of him...Two or three cabins were all the vessel could afford, and four ladies had gone on board; as I believe there was only one bed in each cabin the accommodation would of course be rather deficient and how the gentlemen were to be accommodated was a problem our reporters could not solve. According to all accounts it was one of the worst vessels any of the passengers had seen provided for that part of the voyage and the character of the commander made the matter no better. The Peninsular & Oriental Steam Navigation company have no vessels on that part of the route and the E I Company’s service appear to consider it their principal business to be to carry the mail, without troubling themselves about passengers....
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The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Monday, June 10, 2013
Friday 15th April 1853
From noon yesterday till noon today we had gained 78 miles and were not far from being opposite Mocha. These two days past we had occasionally seen small islands and this forenoon we saw at no great distance the coast of Arabia, though not clearly. The old negro pilot had been at his post at the bow of the vessel for the two past days, night and day on the lookout the navigation being now more dangerous. In the course of the afternoon we saw Mocha in the distance, and a considerable extent of the Arabian coast; a steam vessel was also visible in the same direction. In the evening this vessel passed at no great distance from ours but we remained in ignorance as to what she was. The moon was increasing in size and was giving a pleasant though not very brilliant light. During the day we had seen several birds of large size on the wing.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Saturday, June 8, 2013
Thursday 14th April 1853
The breeze was still stronger and we made only 49 miles in our course. The ship pitched a good deal and the heat and motion together rendered it very uncomfortable, more particularly as the head wind carried the hot and impure air from the engine room and galley backwards into the saloon. Several of the passengers were sick and both yesterday and today I felt uncomfortable though up all day. Towards evening however the sea fell and the breeze abated a little, and the nearly new moon did not set till 10 o’clock, giving promise of pleasant evenings for some time to come.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Thursday, June 6, 2013
Wednesday 13th April 1853
The breeze had increased in strength and was right against us, and from noon of yesterday till noon of today we gained in direct course only 66 miles, the vessel from want of power being obliged to tack. It still continued warm.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Tuesday, June 4, 2013
Tuesday 12th April 1853
The weather continued to become warmer but nothing particular occurred the vessel proceeding with one paddle wheel at a reduced speed: before the accident we had been going on at the rate of 200 mile a day, since that time the rate had been 171,113 and 119 miles each day respectively. This day there was a gentle breeze from the south.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Sunday, June 2, 2013
Monday 11th April 1853
The weather appeared to be getting rather warmer and the breeze was now against us, being southerly. In the afternoon it became almost calm. About 11 o’clock a steamer was observed in the distance which rapidly approached us, as we fired guns and made signals for a communication. When sufficiently near a boat pushed off with the Chief Officer and the Admiralty Agent who went on board the steamer which was the Oriental ( mail steamer) on her way to Suez. Many of the passengers sent letters on board and I prepared one myself but from the suddenness with which the boat put off I along with many others were disappointed. After our boat’s return we resumed our voyage, as did the Oriental.
The general arrangements in the Bentinck were similar to those of the Ripon, but in a few points they differed. We had champagne twice a week as on the Ripon but no soda water was allowed except paid for. We had claret, however and vin de graves which we had not had on the Ripon, and claret and water often took the place of tea and coffee, being cooler. There was need for something of the kind as the water was both muddy and brackish. Butter was kept in small stoneware jars, (Stephen Green’s patent covered) and marmalades and jams and jellies were frequently substituted at breakfast. The bread was very good.
I have forgotten to mention that the crew was principally composed of lascars and was very numerous. The stewards were English and a few sailors also. The Lascars slept about the decks lying about on the main deck amidst all the close air and heat- proceeding from the engine and the cooking apparatus. My own cabin was on the main deck and it was often troublesome picking my way amongst the sleeping sailors in the evening... On the whole they looked very well. Some of these were robust men and most of them small and slight. Usually they were dirty enough both in person and in dress the latter in many cases consisting of only something wrapped round the loins. There were also some Chinese amongst the crew viz two carpenters, easily recognised by their physiognomy...
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
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