Today there was a gentle breeze in our favour and all sails were set. Prayers were read in the saloon but I was not present; there was no music, there being no band on board except a few fiddlers, not first rate artists. The fog had now cleared away and it was very warm.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Friday, May 31, 2013
Wednesday, May 29, 2013
Saturday 9th April 1853
The hopes formed yesterday regarding our voyage were this day doomed to disappointment, as at about half past 11 o’clock this forenoon the main shaft to which the paddle wheels are connected broke when we were nearly opposite Jiddah lat 21 50 north long 37 39 east. The vessel’s progress was stopped but after a little delay some arrangements were made by which we resumed progress with one paddle wheel, at a slower rate. The fog was clearing off and the temperature becoming warmer. In the evening in looking at the stars the north pole star was observed a great deal lower in the heavens than we are accustomed to see it in England. The breeze continued gentle and rather favourable to our progress.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Monday, May 27, 2013
Friday 8th April 1853
Nothing of importance occurred this day worthy of recording: the weather continued foggy and warm, making a lightening of clothing very agreeable. The sun’s disc was occasionally visible in the white and well defined form caused by fog. The vessel was making good way and we were in good hopes of a favourable voyage coming to a speedy termination. The phosphorescence of the seas was very distinct in the evening.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Saturday, May 25, 2013
Thursday 7th April 1853
This morning the rattle of the great chain by which the anchor was raised awoke me about 4 or 5 o’clock, announcing that we were now about to start our voyage down the Gulf of Suez. The day turned out to be very foggy and prevented us from getting any view of the coast.It however, moderated very considerably the heat of the sun. In the afternoon we passed a high ridge on our left dimly seen through the fog called the heights of Zeittee, on the coast of the peninsula of Sinai. An old negro sat at the bow of the vessel with a coarse mantle thrown over his back as a tent and steadily looking before him. This was our pilot upon whose skill and care our safety depended in our passage through the dangers of the coral reefs and islands with rocky shores of the Gulf of Suez, the Straits of Jubal and northern portion of the Red Sea. These pilots possess remarkable acuteness of vision and great practical experience of the navigation of these dangerous waters, which they have acquired in navigating their small ships... Their services are mostly required at the two extremities of the Red Sea; for a great part of our voyage our pilot’s attendance was not necessary, but he remained at his post all this day, from, I presume, the time of starting in the early part of the morning, during the whole of the next night till the afternoon of the next day. The presence of the fog, which is, I was informed very unusual in the Red Sea, made his services of peculiar importance.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Thursday, May 23, 2013
Wednesday 6th April 1853
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| "Suez" c.1850s Image copyright of P&O Heritage |
With a friend I visited the town and its Bazaar. Miserable enough it was: the description I have already given of the shops of Cairo applies also to this, only that the shops were smaller, poorer, dirtier. In a butchers shop we observed some carcases of a variety of sheep occurring here having broad fleshy tails. In another I observed a workman in metal blowing his fire with a pair of bellows of very simple construction, consisting of a bag of skin having a fixed pipe for blowing the air through, the mouth of the bag being supplied with two flat pieces of wood one on each side and fitting to each other; these were held in the operator’s hands, opened a little when raising the bag to fill it with air and pressed close together when the bag was pressed down to expel the air for the blast. In one place we observed two people, one or both women, turning round a circular flat stone working on another by an axle and grinding in that way between the two stones some seeds or beans: the upper stone was hollowed out in the centre into a funnel and hole, I presume for the purpose of introducing the seeds which were to be ground between the two. We passed baker’s shops, provision shops, dealers in fruit, in trinkets in cotton & muslin, besides others which it would be difficult to designate correctly...
...The heat was great in Suez, the temperature being higher than any we have previously experienced. On this account it was necessary to avoid exposure to the sun and to take precautions against sun-stroke. Here many of the passengers procured pieces of muslin to wrap round their hats, turban fashion. Those who have had experience of tropical countries say that the sun’s action takes effect not on the top of the head but round the forehead and temples; and surround the head in that place with a thick body of muslin which prevents the sun’s rays from penetrating and affecting the brain. But the best of all coverings for the head is said to be what is called the Sola topee...
...The population of Suez was less mixed with Europeans, or even less mixed in general than that of Cairo.There was a considerable proportion of negroes, and many of the waiters at the Hotel were of that class. Many of these I believe come up the Red Sea from the east coast of Africa in their own vessels, as traders. Amongst all the differences of dress and manners, amidst all the poverty & dirt, ignorance and degradation and amongst people of so many varieties of colour and feature, black ,olive or yellow, with the prominent features of the Circassian race, or the flat nose and thick lips of the negro;whether Musselman or pagan, or it may be Jew or Christian; it was pleasant sometimes to see characteristics of a common humanity, things that speak at once to the heart of all, without the aid of language and independent of any bond of union, either of race or country or creed; the laugh ever ready to answer the joke, the tenderness towards infancy, the simple caress of childhood, the ambition to emulate the eagerness for gain: things like these stood out in relief from amongst all the rest, and reminded me, that, in spite of all differences, I stood and walked, and talked amongst beings with whom I could not help acknowledging because feeling the sympathy of a common brotherhood.
But we were now about to leave Egypt so famous in history, holding a rank so exalted in ancient and so degraded in modern times, some of us perhaps with recollections only of its mud and dirt, its ignorance and degradation, others it may be hoped, with a mixture of some more agreeable feelings. The small steamer appointed to convey us aboard the Bentinck at 4 o’clock was not ready for the purpose till about 6 o’clock in the evening. Our luggage had been brought forward by the camels and deposited on the wharf, as well as other goods by the Ripon... and now the luggage and passengers were placed or placed themselves on board the small steamer and proceeded to the Bentinck, on our arrival at which daylight had departed. With a little trouble and inconvenience however we managed to get safely on board and secure our berths. Before the arrangements were all settled we hung about the saloon, which was in some respects different from that of the Ripon, the most striking feature of novelty being the punkah suspended over the long table. This consisted of a long wooden rod or spar suspended by strings from the ceiling of the saloon at a distance of about 18 inches, running longitudinally over the middle of the table, from which hung some rather stiff material, apparently several folds of canvas covered with cotton cloth: this apparatus was suspended over the whole length of the table in the saloon, but divided into three parts. Cords were attached to the wooden rods and proceeded from each pair of punkahs, that is the punkah over the two tables in the same part of the saloon, to one side, where they passed over a pulley, and were drawn by a person placed there when wanted, so as to cause the punkahs to wave over the table constituting in fact a large fan. Subsequently I found this very pleasant: it was generally used at meals.
The ship was kept in a state of great turmoil and confusion, but after securing a berth, having had little sleep for several days, I went to bed and soon fell asleep.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Tuesday, May 21, 2013
Tuesday 5th April 1853
Immediately proceeding on deck I saw the lights in the distance, and very speedily, the boat was laid alongside of the pier or wharf, close to the stairs which lie alongside the stone wall. The place was lighted by torches, consisting of little chauffers fixed to the top of poles, and filled with burning wood. Without delay we left the boat and getting into an omnibus drove off to Cairo, a distance of one or two miles; there passing through the gate of the city were soon safely deposited in Shepheards hotel at about 4 o’clock in the morning.
There being some difficulty in getting a bed I contented myself with taking a tepid bath instead, and a cup of tea, and before 6 o’clock, when daylight had come, was ready to go out. I found that the hotel was situated in the outer part of the town, and before it was an avenue of fine trees leading out to the gardens and the country....
...At 9 o’clock we breakfasted and at that hour four of the desert vans started with our first lot of passengers The vans are plain but strongly built carriages on two wheels, carrying six inside,the door being at the back and the seats along the sides. There were no seats for outside passengers, but one in front for the coachman, who drives four horses or two horses and two mules. As our party was the fifth in order we belonged to the second lot of vans which was not to start till one o’clock. Having a mind then to see as much as we could, another passenger and I, with two ladies set off in a barouche to visit the Pacha’s gardens at Shoubra about 4 or 5 miles distant... As we proceeded we passed fields of corn and also sugar cane and other vegetables, and we also had a view of the pyramids in the distance. Near our journey’s end we found that we were very close to the river, which we had lost sight of since we left Boulaq. We now entered the gardens which we found very beautifully laid out abounding in a great variety of trees, shrubs and flowers many of the trees were very graceful in their forms...
...Greatly pleased with our visit to the garden at Schouba we returned to Cairo and as it was soon approaching the time of our own departure the ladies of our party remained in the hotel making preparations while my fellow passenger and I went out to visit the bazaars for the purpose of making purchases. These Bazaars are simply what we should call the best streets of shops; these were considerably better than any I had seen previously: time did not permit us to visit the Turkish Bazaar but we passed through a considerable line of streets and saw a number of pretty good shop are so numerous that there is a part called ;the French Bazaar where we made some purchases one of these shops was very handsome and quite in the European style , but it would appear that the shopkeepers take it easy as at a druggists shop at which I called the master had gone to his dinner , and at a booksellers he had gone in the same errand and had locked his door...
...Amongst the customs of the people one attracted my notice, namely, the manner of carrying children. The mode is to set the child astride on one shoulder with its face looking towards the head of the bearer, which the little creature clasps with its hands or leans its head upon...
...Very few females comparatively were seen on the streets and these generally covered by their veils,-thus the hood of the dress is brought down so as to be stretched across the forehead just above the eyes, and another portion of the robe is stretched across the face a little below them, a perpendicular strap in the middle between the two eyes connecting the upper and lower portions, leaving two triangular spaces to see through... Some women we saw unveiled, and some girls in full veil, apparently so young that their prudery appeared rather ridiculous.
I took notice of the general appearance of the people, and was rather surprised to see the almost universal look of intelligence characterising them; it appeared to me to be far more general than in our English population of the working and labouring classes, I do not recollect of having seen a single individual whom I would characterise as stupid, loutish or boorish, or to whom I could apply any stronger term than dull.Possibly the fact that they were accustomed to see such a variety of people of all kinds might partly account for this, as I observed that the children on the streets took no notice of us, sometimes did not lift their eyes to look at us. The observation could not but suggest reflection in my mind respecting the comparative intellectual development of the Egyptians and our own people: from it alone we might draw conclusions the very reverse of the truth: but the fact is very suggestive, and very many things are to be taken into account in drawing comparisons. Instead of coming to conclusions it would perhaps be better to suggest questions, as for instance, how much is due to political institutions? How much to religious opinion, faith or superstition? And again how far are these dependant on the character and intelligence of the people? Or how far our influences from without?...
...The hotel at Cairo was much superior to that at Alexandria, though deficient in our European ideas of comfort, the apartments being large but bare looking in many cases. We now left it for our journey across the desert. Our party consisting of six and the baby with carpet bags, shawls, plaids. It made a very tight fit into the van which started with us at 1 o'clock... Away we drove passing for a short time through cultivated country, but very soon reached the desert. The sky was clear and there was a gentle breeze which moderated the heat... After driving on at a rapid pace for about five miles we stopped to change horses at a station at which the horses were standing ready arranged along a rope lying on the ground to which each horse was attached by means of a short rope fastened round its fetlock. The ostlers who were Arabs, generally with little other clothing than a kind of shirt quickly removed the horses from the vans and yoked the fresh ones, and off we went again immediately... The whole journey from Cairo to Suez extends to about 84 miles and is divided into four principal divisions, each of these being again divided into 4 stages, so that there are 16 stages in all. At the end of each 4 stages is a station house at which the passengers come out for rest and refreshment, the table being ready spread for that purpose with meat, fowls, eggs, bread etc and in the evening tea and coffee also may be had.Wines and malt liquors can also be procured by paying for them, some of them however being rather costly- ale for instance, or porter 2/- per bottle. Fowls were a prominent feature in these repasts, but their flesh was very dry and hard.In other respects the provender was in some things pretty good, in others indifferent but on the whole not amiss in the circumstances.
We arrived at the first of the stations at about 3o'clock... we reached the second or central station shortly after sunset when it was beginning to get dark, between 7 and 8 o’clock where we stopped about an hour and a half...
...The desert is a great plain, but by no means an unbroken level; sometimes we meet with pretty extensive portions with perfectly level surface, but much more generally this undulated, and sometimes there are ridges of low hills; the plains rise towards the centre and declines again towards Suez...
The journey was far from comfortable, the air becoming cool as night advanced, and the window shutters being very troublesome to adjust properly, the means of fastening them not being very perfect and some of the occupants of our van suffering considerably from the discomfort. However in due time we reached the third station and though our progress was retarded considerably by frequent stoppages from the vans losing their way, at length, when the first dawn was beginning to appear, we drew up at the hotel at Suez.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Sunday, May 19, 2013
Monday 4th April 1853
This morning about 5 o’clock the welcome daylight began to make its appearance. I had passed an uncomfortable night attempting to sleep without success, suffered some degree of annoyance from the attacks of certain little creatures which prey on human blood. However fortunately for me I do not suffer much from these creatures.The ladies complained grievously both of these and of the mosquitoes, and the poor baby gave very visible evidence of their attacks on its face: fortunately however for the little creature the bites did not inflame or swell. I went on deck, found it chilly, but gladly waited the rising of the sun: the water of the canal was low and during the night we had exchanged the steam tug for 5 or 6 horses, which carried us along at the rate of about 4 miles an hour. The chiefs of the boat appeared to be Frenchmen the subordinates were natives; two or three of these sat on the bow of the boat on the look out, and all the night added to the dismalness of the entertainment by a continual shouting addressed to the drivers of the horses, the conductors of the other vessels on the canal, or the steersman of our own boat. Two of these men were deficient in the last two joints of the forefinger of the right hand, an intentional amputation to disqualify them from being taken as soldiers. We subsequently observed that many of the boys in Egypt had lost and eye, in many cases I was told this also was done intentionally with the same object.
The rising sun brought us light and more slowly heat, and revealed what was to be observed on the banks of the canal. From the flatness of the country the view was very limited; frequently the banks concealed everything else from our view, occasionally however we caught glimpses of the corn fields. Every now and then we passed natives walking along the banks apparently on their way to their labours. Not very long after day had commenced we passed some objects on the banks which attracted my attention, and the nature of which I did not at once make out. They appeared to be erections composed of dried mud, of somewhat circular form and flat on the top; it was observed that there were generally one or two small openings in each of them, and then the fact dawned upon me that they were dwelling places for the inhabitants. As we proceeded and day advanced we passed more of these, and had evidence of what they were, by observing men, women and children, as well as dogs and cattle loitering about them or going in and out of them...
...About midday we arrived at a place in which the canal passed down an avenue of graceful trees for some distance, at the termination of which was a lock, which we passed through and found ourselves on the Nile. A number of boats of various sizes were lying there alongside of one of the largest of which ours was brought, and into which the passengers with their carpet bags were immediately transferred. The remainder of the luggage had, I believe, been carried by camels to the canal where we started from and conveyed to the Nile in another boat; it was all transferred to the Nile boat here and deposited in the hold or upon desk. This vessel was a steamer of very considerably larger size than that we had left, but the accommodation similar though not quite so confined. We immediately proceeded at a pretty rapid rate up the river, there being a pretty strong breeze blowing which kept down the temperature...
...Meals were provided on board in rather better style than the canal boat, and thus the passengers passed the afternoon mostly on deck, till a beautifully clear starry evening replaced the day, inducing many to remain on deck as long as possible- till late at night. Feeling chilly at length I descended to the saloon and there attempted to sleep away the feeling of discomfort, until about 2 o’clock in the morning I heard the welcome intelligence that we were approaching Boulaq, the port of Cairo.
The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
Friday, May 17, 2013
Sunday 3rd April 1853
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| "Alexandria" c.1850 Image copyright of P&O Heritage |
I have forgotten to mention that in passing from the vessel to the shore we passed several large vessels of war, steam and railway ships, belonging to the Pacha. No passports or any such thing were required. After we had arrived about 5 o’clock in the afternoon, along with a few other gentlemen, I went to the Transit Office and there obtained tickets to pass us across to Suez. We had been followed by donkey boys thither and on leaving it were about to proceed to the Post Office on foot but on hearing that we were trying to go we were not quite certain where, our followers impressed the necessity of their assistance upon us in the most zealous and impetuous manner, crowding round us a fairly inclosing us each of them vociferating at the pitch of his voice the praises of his own steed. After trying in vain to escape from them I was at length induced to capitulate and mount a charger belonging to a half naked solicitor; away we cantered to the Post Office, the owners running behind us or by our sides. Of course they would take any amount however high you might choose to give them; however, we bargained for the ride for a shilling...On my return to the hotel I had some conversation with my guide as well as we could understand each other. He addressed me as “My Father”, and impressed upon me that a shilling was nothing to me but of importance to him, he also informed me that he had travelled as servant to a gentleman a good deal, and volunteered to act in the same capacity to me, an offer which I was obliged to decline...
...The day was warm though not more so than a warm summer day in England.Our walk outside took us to the suburbs where we saw some specimens of palms and other tropical vegetation. In one of these walks we passed the Victoria Hotel of which I heard a favourable report; the one in which our party put up was not the most comfortable. At 6 o’clock the omnibuses drove up to the hotel to convey the passengers to the Mahmoudieh Canal, a mile or two distant, where we got on board a boat somewhat in the style of a Liverpool ferry boat but smaller: it had a saloon with a seat all round, camp stools and two long tables, with a smaller similar apartment for ladies. This was attached by a rope to a small steamer which was to drag us along to Atfeh on the Nile. We started about 7 o’clock on a beautiful starry evening, but it is needless to dwell on the circumstances of the night passage which was not particularly comfortable. It is sufficient to say that we got below in very indifferent style, and passed the night as we best could; some on deck, some below, some sleeping, reclining on the seat lying on the table or sitting on the stools, or attempting to sleep; some playing cards: those who had wrappers enough came best off on deck, but I was not of that number having neglected to provide myself with such things; indeed not being aware of the necessity, the night being rather cool.
The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.
Visit http://www.poheritage.com/ to see more of the P&O image collection and to find out more about about P&O's rich history. Follow P&O Heritage on @POHeritage
The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.
Visit http://www.poheritage.com/ to see more of the P&O image collection and to find out more about about P&O's rich history. Follow P&O Heritage on @POHeritage
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
Saturday 2nd April 1853
Got up in time to go on deck this morning before breakfast and found the breeze gently moderated and now directly from the north... Nothing particular was to be seen on deck, as we had been out of sight of land since we had left Malta. In the course of the day a bell was rung suddenly on deck giving an alarm of fire, and on going out of the saloon I found a water hose lying along the main deck with a number of crew and officers about it. On enquiry I found that it was only an exercise , for the purpose of accustoming the crew to the use of the apparatus for extinguishing fire, and instructing everyone to know where to go in the event of any such occasion requiring it, instead of running about, at a loss alike where to go and what to do. This plan had been adopted since the catastrophe of the burning of the Amazon in January 1852. In the afternoon the passengers made up their lists of parties of 6 each for the vans across the desert and one of the ships officers drew lots for the order in which they were to proceed....
The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.
Monday, May 13, 2013
Friday 1st April 1853
Last night there was more rolling and pitching, crashes and noises than we have had since we set out. I tried in vain to rise and was obliged to content myself with a little breakfast in bed and a bit of bread with some brandy and water at midday. As the day advanced the violence of the gale abated and I managed to get up in time to get a little dinner at table. Towards evening I so far recovered after tea as to be able to play draughts with a fellow passenger and gain 5 games out of 7. I had also visited the deck but no land had been in sight since we had left Malta. Before retiring to bed I had an opportunity of seeing the phosphorescence of the waters which I formerly adverted to and had seen several times since... The wind had been changing today and the vessel was making good progress again.
The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.
The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.
Saturday, May 11, 2013
Thursday 31st March 1853
Yesterday evening’s fears respecting the weather were realised to the full. I rolled about in bed and passed a very uncomfortable night. On getting up I felt sick and puked, but managed to get dressed, take a little breakfast, and go on deck. The wind was very strong and right ahead, the ship pitching and rolling violently the sea frequently breaking over the deck. I remained up till after dinner but was then obliged to go to my cabin, being sick and finally got rid of my dinner as I had of other food that day. I had changed my berth the day before from one downstairs near the middle of the vessel to one in the saloon and thought I had changed for the better, but now found that though it was pleasanter, being better lighted, yet being nearer the stern there was much more motion. The gale had been increasing in violence all day and many of the passengers were confined to their cabins. The progress of the vessel was. I believe, only from 3 to 5 miles an hour, her usual rate being 10 to 12.
The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.
Thursday, May 9, 2013
Wednesday 30th March 1853
The morning was fine and there was abundance of bustle on board as we were receiving the mails and passengers with their luggage. About a dozen passengers joined us here, I believe, making up the losses we had sustained at Gibraltar, as well as a few more at Malta. I observed a rather dirty looking Arab in Turkish costume added to our list, as a second class passenger. About 10 o’clock we started off and soon lost sight of Malta and of land: the weather was fine and the breeze gentle but against us. It increased in strength however during the day, giving little promise of a comfortable evening.
The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.
Tuesday, May 7, 2013
Tuesday 29th March 1853
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| "Malta" Image copyright of P&O Heritage |
This morning the wind had considerably abated and the sea was much quieter. About 8 o’clock we found ourselves opposite Goza, one of the Maltese group of islands and coasting along this, passing this still smaller island Cuneiro ,we arrived at, Valetta, the capital of Malta about 10 o’clock forenoon...
...I had undertaken the charge of two ladies, and along with another gentleman and his wife, we went ashore by means of a small boat, many of which were at the ship’s side waiting for the passengers. On reaching the shore we ascended a considerable way by means of stairs till we reached the town and then up narrow steep streets towards the principal squares of the town. There we proceeded first to some shops where some of our party wished to make purchases. A jewellers shop was the first of them in which we found some trinkets for which I believe Malta is celebrated, made of coral and lava. Of the coral are formed small articles such as keys, anchors crosses, shoes, horse-shoes etc called charms usually strung together in bunches of 6 or more, and worn attached to the watch chain, believed by the Italians, I was told,, to have a protecting influence over the wearer.Of the lava, white, greenish gray, or light greenish brown colours are made brooches with figures cut on them in relief. Of both materials I saw bracelets of various forms, some composed of links of fanciful form fastening over the wrist with a clasp, or of beads strung upon a thin band of vulcanised indian rubber. The most novel of these however were the serpents composed of joints adapted neatly to one another, strung upon a spring forming two coils on a spiral, which could be opened out sufficiently to enable it to be passed over the hand clasping the wrist comfortably when in its place a carved head projected from one end of the spiral which terminated in a neat tail at the other.Some of these serpents were also formed of shell such as cameos are sometimes made of. Another class of articles was composed of silver filigree work such as brooches, card cases etc very beautiful. A basket was shown us of this kind of manufacture which had been exhibited at the Great Exhibition in London, 1851, and for which the artist had obtained a prize medal and a certificate both of which were displayed in the shop.In another shop which we visited some articles of French manufacture were to be found cheap- articles of ladies dress and kid gloves, with some of the last of which I supplied myself.
The streets were in general narrow, some very much so, and some worthy of being called broad. The architecture was peculiar, the most noticeable features being the prevalence of large windows projecting above the ground story, overhanging the street. There were several fine squares in the town, some public buildings of modern architecture, but more of them ancient- old churches or large residences of Italian appearance some of them formerly tenanted by the Knights of Malta
From our elevated spot we had a view of the principal harbour containing a great many vessels of different countries among them a considerable number of large ships of war. All around the harbour were the fortifications which I did not inspect, but which are said to be almost as strong as those of Gibraltar. We then visited St John’s Church...
...We next visited the English protestant church erected by the late Queen Dowager Adelaide, a very handsome building externally and equally chaste and handsome in its interior: the simplicity being a great relief from the overpowering gorgeousness of the building we had just left. Thence we proceeded to the Governor’s residence in which we had a view of the dining room, a fine room with portraits of some of the old Grand Masters...
...After having posted some letters and seen two of the ladies of our party on board, I returned to the other lady and gentleman (a young married couple) at a hotel where we had luncheon. We then hired a one horse car and set off, with the intention of proceeding to Civita Vecchia (the old city) some 6 mile distant where there are extensive catacombs, and a cave, called St Pauls cave in which it is stated the Apostle resided for 3 months when shipwrecked. The car in which we rode is worthy of notice a it was in the general style of these vehicles in Malta. The body was of the ordinary form of an English car, but the axle tree was far back, as far as the back of the body, instead of being below its middle...
...One of the most characteristic features of the town is the number of priests on the streets, generally dressed in black with breeches and stockings, black cloaks, and great broad brimmed hats turned up to some extent like the three cornered cocked hat. Some we also saw walking to and from the churches in white robes. Men in Moorish and Oriental costumes we also saw on the street, though not in greater proportion than in Gibraltar. Instead of the graceful Spanish costume of the ladies, the Maltese fashion is a kind of hood held over the head, something like the petticoat drawn up over the head: most of the females however we saw in this dress were of the poorer class, those of higher rank being almost all in English dress and apparently English people. A few of the girls, apparently natives, were rather pretty, though personal beauty did not appear to be very characteristic of the population...
..Many of the passengers went to the Italian Opera, which is open every alternate evening, but we returned to the vessel about 9oclock, the Sultan carrying mail and passengers from Marseilles, arrived in the harbour, passing us in the dark. A few gentlemen of her company came aboard our vessel shortly afterwards, and later in the evening, the greater part of our own passengers came on board also.
The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow in May. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.
Visit http://www.poheritage.com/ to see more of the P&O image collection and to find out more about about P&O's rich history. Follow P&O Heritage on @POHeritage
Sunday, May 5, 2013
Monday 28th March 1853
It had blown hard all night and to a great extent interrupted or prevented the sleep of the passengers. About 7oclock of the morning we passed Galeita at some distance, a rugged rocky island of small size; afterwards we passed the Cane rocks (Canis -or dog rocks); and about 3 o’clock afternoon Zemba Island, a still smaller rocky island than Galeita. These two islands are either uninhabited, or used as penal settlements by the Sicilian or Maltese governments.
The wind continued to blow all day, though not quite to such an extent as on Saturday afternoon and night. About 5 o’clock of the afternoon, while the table cloth was removing preparatory to the dessert, intelligence was brought downstairs that the “Indus” was in sight-(one of the Company’s steamers) on her way to Gibraltar. Most of the passengers immediately repaired to the deck, and there was the vessel with her masts and funnels rather obscurely visible on the eastern horizon through the spray and mist, forcing her way against the wind and waves; on our right a bold promontory stretched out towards the east, Cape Bon on the coast of Africa; and gradually but rapidly the “Indus” made her way between our vessel and the land, soon disappearing behind us...
The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.
Friday, May 3, 2013
Sunday 27th March 1853
I went on deck this morning at 7 o’clock to see if we were near Algiers but found that we had passed it, at a considerable distance, two hours before.
The wind had been rising and continued to increase as the day advanced, till towards evening it blew hard, but right on our stern. The vessel pitched and rolled on the long swelling billows, spray dashed on the deck, showers occasionally swept over us, and clouds were drifted along the surface of the water... The approach of darkness induced those on deck to retire, but I visited it at a later hour, and had an opportunity of then seeing, to a small extent, the phosphorescence of the waters, which I may probably have a better opportunity of seeing afterwards and thus describing.
Prayers were read today about half past ten o’clock. The sailors I observed attended. I presume all except those required on deck or otherwise engaged.
The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.
Wednesday, May 1, 2013
Saturday 26th March 1853
This day we continued our voyage having still the mountain ridge of Spain in view on our left though at a greater distance. As day advanced this also faded from our sight; the weather however was fine and mild, and I sat with my books on deck; in the after noonthe wind which had been easterly from Gibraltar, changed to south west and the vessel heaved a little more to the swell of the sea. Some porpoises or animals of similar nature passed the vessel towards evening, gambolling in a line on the surface of the water.
The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.
The full journal will be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India will form a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition which will open to the public on 18 May.
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