Wednesday 11th May 1853

This day at noon we had run 202 miles in the last 24 hours and... it was thought probable that we might reach Sundheads this evening in time to take in a pilot to carry us up to Calcutta next day. However, though the day had been fine, just immediately after sunset the sky began to assume a threatening aspect and apprehensions were entertained of another squall: the sails were immediately taken down in preparation for it, but although there was a great deal of lightning flashing vividly around us no squall came on. The sky nevertheless being obscured and it being dangerous in the present situation to proceed, at 8 o’clock the steam was taken off and the vessel lay to for soundings; an attempt was made about ½ past one o’clock in the morning to proceed but was not persevered in.

The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.

Tuesday 10th May 1853

This morning about ½ past 10 oclock a violent squall suddenly burst upon the ship the wind howling amongst the rigging, the rain pouring down in torrents and the lightning flashing over the vessel. There were a few peals of thunder, but a great deal more silent lightning, which every few seconds illuminated the deck as brilliantly as day. All hands were summoned on deck and the sails were hauled down. In about an hour it subsided...

...I had got up shortly after it broke out having been awakened by the noise and when it began to abate went to bed again and fell asleep. Sometimes afterwards I awoke in great alarm and distress, howling or attempting to howl for assistance, as I thought that I had a pig in my bed. To my great relief I found that it had been only the nightmare.

Notwithstanding the detention occasioned by the squall we ran 165 miles, wind and current being in our favour.The new moon in the evening was now quite distinctly visible a thin crescent with the points extended in a very thin luminous ring completing the circle, as we often see it in England...

...Frequently in the evening the Mahomedans might be seen at their prayers. Generally choosing a place from which they might have a view of the horizon looking towards Mecca, the burial place of the Prophet, they stood or knelt muttering words of prayer, every now and then prostrating themselves and touching the floor with their forehead. This was first observed in Egypt in the Nile boat, and was frequently seen afterwards immediately after sunset.

The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.

Monday 9th May 1853

By noon this day our run had been 207 miles in less than 23 hours, the greatest we had had since the breaking of the shaft. Probably there had been a current in our favour. Immediately after sunset we had the first view of the new moon, very faint in the western sky, not far above the horizon. In the evening one of the ships officers brought us a flying fish which had been found in one of the cabins near the paddle boxes: it had flown in there through the open porthole probably attracted by the paddlebox light above it, the occurrence not being a singular one. It was a fish about the size and colour of a small herring, straighter and rounder with the two side fins much elongated, a this membrane being stretched between the ribs of the fins, serving the purpose of temporary wings.

The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.

Sunday 8th May 1853

This morning early we came in sight of land: about 7 o’clock the ship in the roads and the buildings along the shore at Madras were distinctly visible, at 10 minutes past 8 o’clock we dropped anchor. Having got breakfast earlier than usual I prepared to go on shore with two of the passengers bound for Madras and some others... The houses along the shore were public offices, merchants offices or hotels, presenting long fronts of about two stories high, with large unglazed windows and verandahs...We got into a carriage and drove first to a hotel and then to the forts (St Georges fort) This is an extensive and strongly fortified inclosure, within which are situated many buildings for government offices and for the accommodation of the garrison... The premises seemed extensive and within the apartments were a great number of native assistants sorting letters, keeping accounts and otherwise occupied, while without were a great many native letter carriers waiting to be despatched. Within were a few European superintendants or officials...

...As we passed to and from the fort we passed along the skirt of a park, I suppose used for a drive, a level field enclosed by railings and ornaments with rows of trees.... On our way also we saw two or three rows of native streets; small houses open in front, many of them, I think, shops, with numbers of people about them. Numerous natives were also passing to and fro, about the fort, or along the roads. ...Occasionally we met a bullock cart, or sometimes a bullock with a load on its back...

...The natives are generally of a dark chestnut brown colour and more uniform in appearance than those of Galle. Their dress is similar, and with many particularly the boatmen, about as scanty as possible. But I had very little time for observation as we were on shore only about1 ¾ hours and from its being Sunday, as well as from indecision amongst different individuals of the party we did not make even the best of the time we had...

"Madras" © P&O Heritage Collection

...We had now, however to return to the vessel and sought a boat for the purpose. These are called accommodation boats or mussoolahs, and are large boats of peculiar construction, there being no nails in them, the boards being sewed together, nor I think, any rib. They appear to be very buoyant and are manned by about a dozen rowers... The rowers do not keep time very well but they work away vigorously, all the time chanting a very monotonous and unmelodious recitative in which though quite unintelligible... It was amusing to see how persevering they were in it, as if, the leading man had occasion to reply to any question, or give any orders, he immediately resumed the ditty as before. In coming to land, when near the shore, they stop their rowing and watch the approach of a lofty billow, when immediately they ply their oars vigorously and the boat is carried well up on the beach, when the passengers get out as quickly as possible. Sometimes, however, they do not make a very successful hit and the boat is whirled about by the succeeding waves, the spray dashing over the side of the boat and wetting the passengers. This was the case on our landing and I came in for a share of the wetting. It is said that this may generally be prevented by the promise of something additional to the fare to the boatmen. I going off we got into a boat lying on the shore which was pushed off, and after a few violent plunges amongst the waves as they rolled on to the beach got speedily out of their influence, and after some time reached the ship having this time escaped a wetting.
Besides these large boats there is a curious kind of canoe, called a catamaran used by the natives. It consists of two logs of wood laid side by side, fastened close together  in front, and a little apart behind by a cross piece. On these rude rafts two boatmen sit, propelling them with paddles. We saw several of them about the ship, one I observed with a basket containing fish. Of course the boatmen are exposed completely to the waves but they are often employed to carry letters, which they do by putting them in a waterproof cap fitting closely to the  head. In this way they pass between the shore and the ships, when other boats would not venture.
We arrived on board about 12 o’clock the time appointed for leaving, but- from some unavoidable causes this was delayed for an hour. At 10 minutes past 1oclock we started on our way to Calcutta and the coast being flat soon got out of sight of land. Prayers were read in the saloon in the evening.



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The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.

Saturday 7th May 1853

The weather still kept very close and warm, and yesterday and today I experienced a good deal of annoyance from the prickly heat, for the first time; a disagreeable  prickling itchy sensation, sometimes leading one to think that insects were creeping over the skin. The temperature indicated by the thermometer at noon was not greater than it had been some days before arriving in Galle, but it was more felt, I suppose from the absence of wind and perhaps greater moisture in the atmosphere. I am doubtful if I have ever mentioned that the Bentinck was fitted with awnings both over the quarterdeck and fore castle, which were usually spread in the morning and kept up till about sunset, except when contrary winds made them objectionable from impeding the progress of the vessel. But during such weather as this, the awnings though a protection from the direct rays of the sun, did not render the deck very agreeable: the forecastle was most agreeable as it got the coolest air from the ocean, while generally on the quarterdeck it had become heated from having passed the hot funnels. The same cause rendered the saloon unpleasant, particularly when there was a gentle breeze ahead of us. Between sunset and bedtime however, was the favourite time for resorting to the deck to enjoy the comparatively cool evening air.
The vessel was making good way and we calculated on reaching Madras about breakfast time tomorrow morning. There we were to lose two passengers from England and one who had joined the ship at Galle. Many of the other passengers busied themselves in preparing letters for England, to be posted at Madras.

The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.

Friday 6th May 1853

Our course since Wednesday had been turning from east to north east and north and at noon was NN West.we had., by noon passed the most easterly part of the island and were now about 12 miles southward of Trincomalee, directing our course towards Pondicherry on the coast of India.
A heavy shower of rain fell in the morning. During the day it was almost a calm, and the weather felt very close and warm.

The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.

Thursday 5th May 1853

The weather was fine and the winds light today as we proceeded today in view of the coast at a considerable distance, which was kept to avoid the Bass rocks. These lie some miles off the shore and scarcely rise above the water. We saw the waves breaking upon them however in the distance. A mountain range seemed to rise near the coast and loftier mountains rose dimly and faintly in the distance behind. The forms of some of the nearer range were very peculiar, abruptly precipitous or steeply conical. Near sunset in the evening, when on deck, a smell of vegetation –the smell of the jungle, was wafted distinctly from the land, though the distance would be about 10 or 12 miles.

The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.