This morning early we came in sight of land: about 7 o’clock the ship in the roads and the buildings along the shore at Madras were distinctly visible, at 10 minutes past 8 o’clock we dropped anchor. Having got breakfast earlier than usual I prepared to go on shore with two of the passengers bound for Madras and some others... The houses along the shore were public offices, merchants offices or hotels, presenting long fronts of about two stories high, with large unglazed windows and verandahs...We got into a carriage and drove first to a hotel and then to the forts (St Georges fort) This is an extensive and strongly fortified inclosure, within which are situated many buildings for government offices and for the accommodation of the garrison... The premises seemed extensive and within the apartments were a great number of native assistants sorting letters, keeping accounts and otherwise occupied, while without were a great many native letter carriers waiting to be despatched. Within were a few European superintendants or officials...
...As we passed to and from the fort we passed along the skirt of a park, I suppose used for a drive, a level field enclosed by railings and ornaments with rows of trees.... On our way also we saw two or three rows of native streets; small houses open in front, many of them, I think, shops, with numbers of people about them. Numerous natives were also passing to and fro, about the fort, or along the roads. ...Occasionally we met a bullock cart, or sometimes a bullock with a load on its back...
...The natives are generally of a dark chestnut brown colour and more uniform in appearance than those of Galle. Their dress is similar, and with many particularly the boatmen, about as scanty as possible. But I had very little time for observation as we were on shore only about1 ¾ hours and from its being Sunday, as well as from indecision amongst different individuals of the party we did not make even the best of the time we had...
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| "Madras" © P&O Heritage Collection |
...We had now, however to return to the vessel and sought a boat for the purpose. These are called accommodation boats or mussoolahs, and are large boats of peculiar construction, there being no nails in them, the boards being sewed together, nor I think, any rib. They appear to be very buoyant and are manned by about a dozen rowers... The rowers do not keep time very well but they work away vigorously, all the time chanting a very monotonous and unmelodious recitative in which though quite unintelligible... It was amusing to see how persevering they were in it, as if, the leading man had occasion to reply to any question, or give any orders, he immediately resumed the ditty as before. In coming to land, when near the shore, they stop their rowing and watch the approach of a lofty billow, when immediately they ply their oars vigorously and the boat is carried well up on the beach, when the passengers get out as quickly as possible. Sometimes, however, they do not make a very successful hit and the boat is whirled about by the succeeding waves, the spray dashing over the side of the boat and wetting the passengers. This was the case on our landing and I came in for a share of the wetting. It is said that this may generally be prevented by the promise of something additional to the fare to the boatmen. I going off we got into a boat lying on the shore which was pushed off, and after a few violent plunges amongst the waves as they rolled on to the beach got speedily out of their influence, and after some time reached the ship having this time escaped a wetting.
Besides these large boats there is a curious kind of canoe, called a catamaran used by the natives. It consists of two logs of wood laid side by side, fastened close together in front, and a little apart behind by a cross piece. On these rude rafts two boatmen sit, propelling them with paddles. We saw several of them about the ship, one I observed with a basket containing fish. Of course the boatmen are exposed completely to the waves but they are often employed to carry letters, which they do by putting them in a waterproof cap fitting closely to the head. In this way they pass between the shore and the ships, when other boats would not venture.
We arrived on board about 12 o’clock the time appointed for leaving, but- from some unavoidable causes this was delayed for an hour. At 10 minutes past 1oclock we started on our way to Calcutta and the coast being flat soon got out of sight of land. Prayers were read in the saloon in the evening.
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The full journal will soon be published by Annet House Museum, Linlithgow. Waldie's journey to India forms a key feature of the museum's Waldie exhibition.
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